misuse of gear

[Josephine]

I just got a Very Stern Reprimand for misuse of gear, and I want to get a general consensis to see if what I did was, indeed, cause for alarm.

The situation was that a friend and I went to Red Rocks and took a class on beginnig trad leading. In the class, the instructor had us take a fall on his tricam while being backed up on TR. Having never placed a piece before in my life, I found this to be quite thrilling. Especially the thought immediately after the fall "oh my god, it held!"

So, in my excitement, I decide to repeat this great trick by placing 1 piece of each kind (stopper, cam, hex) and taking a "fall" on them. By fall, am not talking about Gaar's 20 foot whipper which bent the piece. My waist was at the piece and i had a 24" sling attached to my lead rope (backed up on TR so i won't deck) - i fell maybe 2-3 feet. I had a wonderful time and feel a lot more comfortable about how the gear works.

The reprimand came because the 3 pieces I used were borrowed gear and the owner was not present. (we borrowed a rack to take the class) The owner was Quite Upset when he found out. I have offered to purchase all 3 pieces i fell on, as I have apparently shortened the life of the pieces.

what I want to know is, did I ignorantly commit a climbing faux-pas? I always thought gear was ment to be used and that it was designed to support falls.

also, barring falls that physically bend/damage, the piece, how many falls can a piece support before it needs to be retired?

[ElectricDisciple]

Wow Josephine, you rock! I'm looking forward to the discussion!!!

[Gaar]

In reguards to

also, barring falls that physically bend/damage, the piece, how many falls can a piece support before it needs to be retired?

I'm donating my old cam to muir so rick can do some testings to see how much it really damaged it....

[Yasmeen]

If I lent someone my gear for a trip, I'd expect for it to be fallen on. In Indian Creek, for example, when everyone pools their gear so that there's enough for someone to lead a 120+ foot route, nobody gets upset if their gear is the piece that's fallen on. I don't think a person should have to specify when they're borrowing gear that it's going to take a beating, I think that should be obvious.

[KD]

having a friend good enough to ;oan you a rack is pretty good fortune - i'd not even question replacing a couple of pieces.

[McDowell]

If I lend parts of my rack out I expect people to take falls on pieces. It sounds like your so called friend has a stick up his/her ass. Trad gear is supposed to take the abuse. If I were you I wouldn't replace a thing. It sounds like your friend needs to start taking lead falls.

[SCIN]

They were nerds. That's the only explanation.

[Wes]

Josephine, Heh, this is what climbing with me will get you. Most tard climbers are soooo afraid to even take a 2 foot fall (aka, sag onto a slammer piece) that they assume the world will end if the gear is actually used. Much like what Yas said, when I borrowed not one, but two full racks to take to the creek, the assumption was it might be fallen on, and that is OK. But, if I lost or actually damaged a piece, then it was up to me to replace it.

[Josephine]

i think the concern was the intent - not that it happened. as in i MEANT to fall on the gear - not i accidentally came off and took a fall. I dunno - I'm still learning in this category, and now I know to ask more questions.

<b> gaar</b> I can't wait to see the results of the testing

[ynot]

You offered to replace the gear(and you should be able to keep the stuff you fell on and use it) The owner should be happy with the replacements and shut up.
I watched a guy blow out a new cam and ruin it. It actually umbrellaed. The owner wasn't that upset about it.