The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 12:33 pm

thanks guys, keep the input coming. I will make all suggested changes where there is a consensus.

There is, however, inconsistency w/your suggestions for the following:
18.) Standing Ovation 5.10d or 5.11a or 5.11b
19.) Opening Act 5.10d or 5.11a
20.) Encore 5.10d or 11a
my original info is that they are (in order) 10d, 10d, 11a. So.....?

Has anyone else heard that Technical Foul is 12a?

JB, was Chocolate Waterfall downgraded?

Ho, where are routes 13, 14, 15 - which direction should I move them?

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:33 pm

Technical Foul is a one move .12a. I think Terry even told me that.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 1:50 pm

Hey Michelle,
have you been on Tech Foul yet? I really want to head out there and try it, but I haven't been to the Southern Region in a month or so.

Lynne,
sorry about the bad info. I had them backwards. I think Terry said 18, 19, and 20 were 11a, 11a, 10d. My bad.

Mj

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 2:05 pm

I will make the following changes:

18.) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19.) Opening Act 5.11a
20.) Encore 5.10d

and

13) Technical Foul 5.12a

and

5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a

good?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 2:10 pm

in fact, here is the complete list as it now stands. Please submit any details you have for the on-line guidebook - missing route names, FA(s), year, route length, number of bolts, descent (anchors), moves, whether or not it stays dry, description/directions, etc. Please only provide this info if you are the FA or if you have info from the FA or are otherwise certain. THANK YOU in advance!!

1) Big in Japan 5.7
2) Stairway to Freebird 5.10c
3) Rebel Yell 5.10c
4) (Southern Comfort) 5.10a
5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a
6) Hat Trick 5.9
7) Exacta 5.7
8) Edge of Your Seat 5.10a
9) Split Decision (trad) 5.9
10) Main Event 5.12
11) Plan 9 5.9+
12) Karmic Disruption 5.10d
13) Technical Foul 5.12a
14) Over Time 5.12c
15) Sudden Death 5.12d
15a) trad 5.9 dihedral w/ anchors (Kellyn Gorder)
15b) Tip Off 5.12b (not sure about location)
The Arena proper:
16) Stage Fright 5.12a
17) Dope Show 5.11c
18) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19) Opening Act 5.11a
20) Encore 5.10d
21) Take a Bow 5.10c
22) short 5.9 sport
These next 5 routes are on the buttress
above the main parking area:
23) Two Pitcher 5.10b
24) open project 5.12a/b
25) John Bronaugh trad project 5.11d R
26) open project 5.12c/d
27) 5.9 trad flake w/ anchors
28) 5.11 sport slab ??
29) 5.10c sport slab
start above ladder on dirt ledge
30) 5.8 trad dihedral
start above ladder on dirt ledge
31) 5.6 sport
32) Blake's 5.13a project (2nd pitch)
33) trad crack to anchors of #31)

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 2:40 pm

Oh, I just remembered, the "short 5.9 sport" is called Despair and I am not sure if Blake or Terry bolted it.

Mj

Post by **Gothmog** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:50 pm

#30 is called Through the Turnstile and I thought it was 5.7, #31 is called Penalty Box and I thought it was 5.7 too. My family members that climb think its harder than Blue Plate Special.

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:51 pm

Lynne, Encore is 11a and opening act is 10d. I am 100% sure about this. I think?

Post by **Gothmog** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:35 am

Just got back from the Arena. We did Exacta. It felt like 5.8 and it looked like some big holds had broken. Also, I wasn't too happy about the bolting job. Seems like someone with longer arms than mine placed those bolts.

With traffic it may be a two star climb. Got some choss and iffy rock right now. It's ok, with good position and thought provoking moves. One word of advice:don't get suckered onto the ledge at the next to last bolt. It's a bad idea.

Also did Big in Japan again. Great route!

Post by **hamsco** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 2:28 pm

I think the "short 5.9 sport" #22 (Despair? ) is a 5.8