ATC Guide or Reverso?

Post by **overhung** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 11:38 am

kdelap wrote:Snowpuppy,
Wondering why you don't use an asender such as an Ushba or a Petzl Mini-Traxion as a solo tr device? These are both self feeding and work much better. I guess the only down fall would be switching into decent mode.
As far as the gri-gris cam breaking I don't see that happening. If this is going to break in a short top-rope fall I would think that they would break all the time in leader falls?
And switching into decent mode on a gri-gri requires one step... pull the lever!

Karsten

Would you say a gri gri is as safe as a a silent partner?

Post by **SciFiSanta** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 4:52 pm

I like the just the flat out ATC its really easy and if u don't like that the Gri Gri is also pretty good from the experience i have with it.

Post by **Snowpuppy** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:37 am

When solo top-roping use ATC-Guide, and when solo climbing on lead-I love the silent partner!!!!

Post by **krampus** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:31 am

kdelap wrote:

The gri-gri is also great for rappelling (you already have a back-up on). And of course you can simul-rap to be more efficient.

I am currious, how do you repel with a gri-gri so that you are not just running the rope back through the anchors? I thought the point of repelling off a climb was to protect the anchors and your rope from ware.

Post by **Wes** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:17 am

krampus, There are a couple ways to rappel with a gri-gri, and it doesn't put more wear on the anchors or rope then standard cleaning and lowering, or rappelling.

Post by **krampus** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:03 pm

I don't often use a gri-gri, so I am probably just inexperienced, but I cant immagine the way to rappel witha gri-gri other than lowering yourself from the anchors.

Post by **Wes** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:06 pm

Thread the rope as you normally would. Tie a figure 8 on one strand, clip a locker though that and the other strand. You can now do a single line rappel on the strand that you clipped (not the one with the 8 ). Get to the bottom, and pull the side with the 8. Be sure to try this setup a few times on the ground if you are going to use it!

Post by **krampus** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:25 pm

I see. That definitly works and would probably be easier to collect gear on an overhung rout. I guess I still like the simplicity of the ATC, but I will have to give it a try. I am still warming up to the grigri, I supose I have always been afraid of a belay device where I can quote people as saying "you don't even have to pay attention because it locks automatically"

Post by **kdelap** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:45 pm

Most accidents from a Gri-Gri come from lowering someone, not from dropping them on a leader fall. I don't know of an instant where a gri-gri hasn't caught on a leader fall. Anyone else?

this is taking into account using proper diameter ropes.

Post by **pawilkes** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 3:06 pm

um...ME

i don't know exactly what happened, either it was threaded backwards or the belayers hand got jammed in the device when i fell but i fell from the top of the gym to the ground, probably 30 feet. the only thing that saved me was the skin on my belayers hands, they were totally burned up.