Ro Shampo Training
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- Joined: Tue Sep 14, 2004 5:19 pm
Ro Shampo Training
Currently I am a solid 5.10 and some 5.11's. Would like to do Ro Shampo or Lip Service in the spring. I am 6-2 so I have reach for the long moves. Which would you pick? What moves shoudl I do to train for these?
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- Posts: 179
- Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:40 am
For Lip Service, make sure you're solid both on overhanging jug hauls and really slopey gymnastic feelings moves. It's a very cool route, but requires quite a bit of varied technique. I couldn't use J.J.'s beta for the crux, and instead had to do this pose on the route in order to reach the next hold:
It was pretty amusing, but it worked every time.
It was pretty amusing, but it worked every time.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=206
Power endurance training
Stronger climbers can also use the Campus board for training ’short term’ power endurance, either by utilising the larger ladder rungs, or by using closer rung spacing rungs on the smaller rungs. You will need to be capable of performing between approximately 15 and 30 repetitions to make this worthwhile. This type of training can be highly effective for developing the sort of extreme finger endurance that is tested to the limit when slapping your way up a desperately sustained route.
Power endurance training
Stronger climbers can also use the Campus board for training ’short term’ power endurance, either by utilising the larger ladder rungs, or by using closer rung spacing rungs on the smaller rungs. You will need to be capable of performing between approximately 15 and 30 repetitions to make this worthwhile. This type of training can be highly effective for developing the sort of extreme finger endurance that is tested to the limit when slapping your way up a desperately sustained route.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_spree
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indecent_exposure
Combine these two, and you'll be in good shape for Ro.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indecent_exposure
Combine these two, and you'll be in good shape for Ro.