What did you climb?

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 29, 2003 5:59 am

OK everyone let's hear about it. Here's mine.

Saturday: Did a new route on Middle Small Wall. It starts in a crack of which the first section may have been done but we took it the whole 190 feet. Part of it goes on a face with tiny nubbins and crimpers I had to dig out of the lichen while hanging on for dear life. "Lichen Lung Lunacy" ~10c.

Did the quest and got lots of booty. Moved the rap sling cause the tree it was on got blowed over.

Sun: Followed some 9 trad. Sent Images, Skin Flute and Hey Crude. Got spanked on Blankety Blank. Got Oil's Well That Ends Well from the crux after a couple falls without using the bolt. Horatio Felatio onsighted it with style.

Mon: Followed Overdrive. Sent Breathe Right and Crescenta. Fell on Buff the Wood.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu May 29, 2003 11:32 am

Hey Danny, I LOVE Buff the Wood (plays to my strengths) but since I suck at deadpointing and that move at the third bolt owns me right now. I need to go back and work it in a little more detail. Speaking of which, does anyone have any pointers on how to get better at deadpointing? The move on Infectious has me too.

Friday I took Elizabeth (my fiance') to Phantasia and put up Lord of the Flies and Pogue Ethics for her (she doesn't like leading). Sunday Spragwa, Corey, Elizabeth and I went to the Zoo and with the exception of Elizabeth who hurt her foot we all had a good day of climbing. Corey onsighted Put me in the Zoo, Spragwa got the clean TR ascent of One Brick Shy and I sent Hippocrite. Monday we went to Global and Corey got the clean TR of KY Pinstripe and Spragwa flashed it on TR and she nearly flashed Loosen Up too.

Nice relaxing weekend.

Mj

Post by **allah** » Thu May 29, 2003 1:10 pm

At the Lode for 3 days and got my ass kicked on my project, but hey atleast i sent my warm ups

Post by **Gretchen** » Thu May 29, 2003 1:22 pm

Whats your project Allah?

Post by **SCIN** » Thu May 29, 2003 4:50 pm

SikMonkey wrote:Speaking of which, does anyone have any pointers on how to get better at deadpointing?

Bouldering!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu May 29, 2003 5:10 pm

I have been bouldering a lot more since I put my wall up in my garage, but I haven't been on Buff the Wood since then. I guess I need to get back and try it again. I HAVE noticed a difference in my overall climbing though so it has definitely helped.

Mj

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 29, 2003 5:21 pm

I'm no good at deadpointing. I just make desparate lunges and hold on for dear life. I made it to the last crux where you go out right and up off of a shallow pocket. I realize now I need to pull on the pocket to the right instead of straight down before going for the deadpoint.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 29, 2003 5:36 pm

I want to know how to get better on slopers. They are the bane of my climbing existence right now.

I climbed at WOD and in the Southern Region this weekend. At WOD I sent Strick 9 (LOVED IT!), New Red River (what a suckfest), Funhouse (very fun), Bongo (ditto), and Buckeye Testpiece (blah). All on top rope, but all clean except New Red River which almost killed me for all the shit I sucked into my lungs. That route does not deserve 2 stars by any stretch of the imagination! However it would be GREAT if someone napalmed it. I only got on it to see if I could do the starting moves which were very fun.

Next time I go back to WOD I will lead Strick 9, Funhouse and Bongo. I am back "on" with my climbing, even though my collarbone is still hurting a little. The mental game is my biggest challenge & it's all about focus. Fun weekend, for sure. I can't remember what all we climbed in the Southern Region, but it was fun, too.

Now, about those slopers...?

Post by **Gretchen** » Thu May 29, 2003 5:53 pm

Bouldering as SCIN says! Will definitely help with the slopers. Body tension is key (at least in my book) as well as some good abs. It's learning contact strength and applying it just right.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu May 29, 2003 6:00 pm

Danny, it took some cipherin' before I could get that second crux consistently too. I high step, go up to the bad shallow pocket with my left, work my right foot under me, THEN I look up and locate that big pocket to throw to. I am actually half way into the move before I make the throw. For a while I was trying to do that move static and actually pulled it off once but it was frikkin hard on the ol' fingers. If I can get the first crux the route will go.

Lynne, as far as your slopers go, the only advice I know to give you is to keep your body way under them and try to confine your movement to your lower body while hanging on them. They still give me fits too, but it's well worth spending some time to increase your open hand strength.

Mj