What?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

What is your opinion on this?

You may select 1 option

 
 
View results

JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

What?

Post by JR »

"The theory around here is that if you are onsighting most of the routes in a certain grade, say 5.11- without hanging or falling then you are a 5.11- leader. If you can work a 5.11+ and eventually redpoint it you are a 5.11+ climber. Any reasonably fit person can eventually climb a route if they work it long enough. Being able to start on the ground and lead it to the top without any proir knowledge separates the leaders from the climbers."

I found this quote in Mt. Lemmon, Arizona climbing guidebook by Eric Rhicard
gunslnga
Posts: 798
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:31 am

Post by gunslnga »

I THOUGHT IT SAID POLITICALLY CORRECT, SO MY VOTE IS NULL.....
The enemy of my enemy is my friend.....
anticlmber
Posts: 3393
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am

Post by anticlmber »

You have to lead more than ONE 11+ (or whatever # you need) to say "i'm a 11+ climber" i agree though that it's just climbing. If someone asks "so, what do you climb?" i usually just throw up a little and that makes them go away. Just cuz you can pull your penis out to 12 inches does not mean you have a 12 inch cock. Quit stretching the truth.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
User avatar
SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Re: What?

Post by SCIN »

JR wrote:Any reasonably fit person can eventually climb a route if they work it long enough.
That's not correct. Most people could work Witness the Fitness or Lucifer as long as they wanted but probably will never be able to send. At a certain point it takes some natural abilities or other voodoo.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

yo SCIN dog...why you such a pessimist..visualize brah...visualize....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

I said "most people". Not including myself. :)
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

actually, i was thinking that YOU were the only one who fit that desciption...

that original quote is probably from a trad master who thinks the world revolves around hexes and passive pro..see, if you boulder or sport climb, it ain't nuthin'....it's only climbing....but if you TRAD climb, then you are the cock of the walk...you get to lie about runouts (just means you don't know how to place gear), late night epics (just means you should never lead a group because you don't know how to plan), living out of garbage cans (means you're too lazy to work), choss rock (you suck at route finding), and righteous crack climbing (means you can't hang your ass off of steep stuff)

on second thought, it wasn't written by a traddie, because traddies don't redpoint routes..they hangdog and pull on gear up their chosen line, and then call it a send.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

Onsiting a trad line is less of a true attempt at the line because of all the fiddling around with protection one must do. It's kind of like having to solve little math problems and puzzles and rubiks cubes while you climb. It's just not as pure as sport climbing.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

I thought pure climbing was bouldering...now I am really confused.

RRO and Charlie...help.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

Bouldering is for pussies who are scared of heights.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Post Reply