Quickdraws

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:11 pm

4 locking biners? WOW...that is old school....is there even one other person in the gorge that has that sort of safety setup? just use two of your draws, and oppose the gates. works fine. or one locker if you need it...

Post by **Josephine** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:17 pm

Artsay wrote:I'm still using quickdraws I got 13 years ago made up of the original spirits and dogbone. They still look great and I have no plans on retiring them anytime soon.

wow! I didn't realize they could last that long! I didn't go with the expensive shoes/rope bec I knew that I would wear them out soon. i was thinking it would be the same way with these, but apparently not. glad i asked!

ElectricDisciple wrote:You should get 13 draws.
If you're in Dayton, talk to the guys at Urban Krag and see what they can do as far as putting together a "package deal". Usually it's 10-15% off the total bill.

The folks at UK have always been great so I'll definately check there.

I was so psyched to see a deal at mountaingear.com for $10 per draw... only to find out that they were sold out

One more question - what about different lenghts?
petzls come in 11 & 17. should i aim for 10 shorter ones and 2 longer ones? all shorter ones?

Thanks for all the advice.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:28 pm

pigsteak wrote:4 locking biners? WOW...that is old school....is there even one other person in the gorge that has that sort of safety setup? just use two of your draws, and oppose the gates. works fine. or one locker if you need it...

Personally, I like to use 19 lock biners with a special reinforced steel cord developed by NASA instead of nylon when toproping.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:45 pm

I love spirits, but your best bet is to go practice clipping and see what feels right for your hand. Try them in the store or on other's gear. Also, if you get into climbing overhanging, you'll find that Spirits are nice when you have to clean on lead (sometimes you can't grab the rock so you just have to grab the biner and pull it off quickly - those with a notch are not so easy).

Post by **p0bray01** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:50 pm

I use half the combo described by electricdisciple...I use a normal draw on the anchor end and two lockers on the rope end for TRing...sometimes wires can get defuncketated when you have newbies swingin and dingin on TR....anyway for my first pair of draws...I went with the BD dynotrons(they have clean lock nose so they clean super easy)...yes everyone will tell you they are heavy as hell...and while they are once you start trad or other avenues of climbing...for lobbing off sport route they are workhorses. I mean these things have caught massive whippers...and as a newbie leader I liked having a good solid draw underneath me. To each his own though...the only thing about the Dynotrons is they are a bit pricy...I think they are cheaper than the spirits though...as far as length goes I would get 8-10 or so in the shorter ones and the rest longer...this gives you versatility....most easier routes in the red dont wander much but they do have ledges...which a long draw here and there is great to cut rope drag! Hope that helps!

Post by **ElectricDisciple** » Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:16 pm

SCIN wrote:
pigsteak wrote:4 locking biners? WOW...that is old school....is there even one other person in the gorge that has that sort of safety setup? just use two of your draws, and oppose the gates. works fine. or one locker if you need it...
Personally, I like to use 19 lock biners with a special reinforced steel cord developed by NASA instead of nylon when toproping.

I don't care if it IS old school. Heck, I'd even use carbon filament if I could afford it. And I'd probably even use 80 lockers for something...

Old School...

Post by **p0bray01** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:41 pm

Yeah I would like to think that one day i will be alive (and old enough) to say I was old school....maybe being old school helps me live longer? LOL

Post by **kirker** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 2:46 pm

p0bray01 wrote:Yeah I would like to think that one day i will be alive (and old enough) to say I was old school....maybe being old school helps me live longer? LOL

Its not the age that makes one old school. But the ethics and style. 8)

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 3:20 pm

thanks kirker...

there was a day when folks use to girth hitch two runners to their harness with lockers, and then go straight in with those to transfer....anyone still do that?

when folks used to start a single pitch trad line, they'd put in two pieces off the ground, opposed, to keep the rope close to the wall and prevent higher pieces from pulling. anyone do that?

tbars and hexes used to be standard issue on racks...please tell me you don't own either...

old school is a mentality, but not always an honorable one. things change.

Post by **kirker** » Thu Dec 28, 2006 3:29 pm

pigsteak wrote:thanks kirker...

there was a day when folks use to girth hitch two runners to their harness with lockers, and then go straight in with those to transfer....anyone still do that?

when folks used to start a single pitch trad line, they'd put in two pieces off the ground, opposed, to keep the rope close to the wall and prevent higher pieces from pulling. anyone do that?

tbars and hexes used to be standard issue on racks...please tell me you don't own either...

old school is a mentality, but not always an honorable one. things change.

HeHe
I'm definiatly not old school prefer clipping bolts. Less to carry to crag. And hexes are like the buzzer on your car when you leave the door open. The noise is annoying as hell.