Crack to the left of new 10a Sport route at Solar Collector

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
big_brother
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 9:48 pm

Re: Crack to the left of new 10a Sport route at Solar Colle

Post by big_brother »

Stewy911 wrote: If it has not been done we are calling it "Shudda Known Better, 5.7R"

Description: Locate this crack 30 feet left of "On the Prowl". Climb ramp, with no protection, to obvious tree before the crack starts. Watch out for the meteor size boulder that rest on that tree. Its one huge MUD ball. Sling the tree and maneuver your way around the tree and on top of the boulder where you get your first piece of gear in. Climb dihedral on soft rock until you reach a ledge. Traverse right 20 feet to anchors. 65 feet
Sounds classic. I don't see how it could have possibly gone unnoticed.
Worst. Post. Ever.
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

We had considered climbing that crack to access the top of the cliff, but we decided against it because of the rock quality and lack of protection. Instead I bushwhacked to the top of the cliff and scrambled around an exposed ledge to a spot where I could place anchors to reach the arete "On the Prowl". I figured that the upper anchors would be a good place to end the crack climb and we thought about returning to add a bolt or two, clean up the suspect rock, and make it a mixed route. Anyway, the holiday season arrived and I never got back there. I really wasn't in much of a hurry to finish it and I had secretly hoped that somebody else would do it since I had my eyes on another route.

Congratulations on what is probably an FA. Did you guys enjoy "On the Prowl"? :D
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

On the Prowl was a great line. Very enjoyable, techy slab with a great view from above.

Thanks Jared
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

It is not an FA unless you mention piggie , rpron, wes, blake, and sigh....I guess RRO. (yuk)..there are no two person FA's allowed anymore.

per rockman, all routes must be rated 5.9 or 5.12a...no exceptions. thank you for taking the time to fill in the 13 page questionnaire and truthfulness litmus test as to the veracity and difficulty of this choss pile.

unless you added stainless steel anchors with 5 inch glue ins, there will be no FA recorded.
all lichen must be deposited at the Shell gas staion, and weighed for purity and cough inducing material. should it be found to be lacking in slim factor, the "R" will be removed from the rating.

no other lines may be established until the ethics police board has determined that your rating is within the guidelines set forth in clause 6A of the route developers handbook, which can be checked out at RRO or Miguel's, but only during prime spray season, which falls between 60 per cent humidity and any college break weekend.

any trails established to the left of jared's arete must be Access Fund certified, which will require a $50 deposit in my personal account.

any other questions or queries may be directed to the choss monster, RRO, who will gladly proclaim your route to be a classic worthy of much self flagellation.

PS- enjoy the fame
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

pork rules
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Alan Evil
Posts: 3592
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 1:08 pm

Post by Alan Evil »

ynot wrote:Good luck with it but trust me,5.7r isn't hard to find. happens to me every time I get off route.
Coffee came out of my nose when I read this. Di and I were bushwacking last weekend and kept seeing manky, mossy, filthy cracks full of trees and bushes and kept saying, "Oh, that looks like a ynot route!"
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie

"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

I'm less inclined to climb just anything these days.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

ynot is a closet sportie now..he told me as much in a drunken stupor, that he loves to clip shiny thingies to other shiny thingies....
I can only assume he meant sport routes
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

yeah... that's the way you do it. make your living hanging sport clip draws. That aint workin.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
mazzystr
Posts: 97
Joined: Fri Oct 24, 2003 2:20 pm

Post by mazzystr »

if it aint dirty and flowing with water...i dont want to climb it.
Post Reply