man, i gotta say that there is a huge difference between climbing a 5.x crack and climbing a route at the motherlode of equal difficulty (or easiness?). i think there has to be a distinction. i know one guy who cranks .12+ cracks and then get's outta brreath on a .10+ crack of a different size. same with sport climbing. some people get worked on vertical shit, but can hike in the madness cave.
another note about bberlier...i met this guy a few times and all he does is spray. he's like "oh matt, what did you climb today? let me tell you what i did you little punkass bitch! i sent 3000 .13d's today in one try. you suck asshole!"
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
After awhile placing gear is as easy as clipping bolts. That took me a minute to soak up. Kinda explains your logic in your opening statement. Gives the rest of us another goal to shoot for. I'm getting well rounded.....in the middle.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney