Anchor failure from girth-hitched Dyneema sling

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Eric
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Anchor failure from girth-hitched Dyneema sling

Post by Eric »

Apparently John Sherman recently had a part of his rappel anchor fail where he had girth-hitched a Mammut Dyneema sling to another sling. There is a long thread on this at Supertopo

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... _id=269434

There was also some related testing of these super-thin slings that showed that they lose 1/3 of their strength after 2-3 years. They are only meant to be used for a short time. I didn't realize that Mammut was stating that.

Another reminder to make sure to eliminate any nylon-on-nylon in any anchor.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

see Reachigh, I told you I didn't like those skinny ass slings.
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marathonmedic
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Post by marathonmedic »

I seem to remember goodguy saying something similar about those ultralight draws, too.
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dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne »

ynot wrote:see Reachigh, I told you I didn't like those skinny ass slings.
What's an ass sling? :shock:
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marathonmedic
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Post by marathonmedic »

It's that kinky-looking thing HoFo has in his garage.
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Huggybone
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Post by Huggybone »

No, an ass sling is what you sit in on a long big wall. Duh!
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marathonmedic
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Post by marathonmedic »

that's called a harness
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big_brother
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Post by big_brother »

Who uses two rappel anchors? Sounds a little excessive to me.
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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh »

ynot wrote:see Reachigh, I told you I didn't like those skinny ass slings.


But they are so light.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

So instead of girth hitching two slings around a tree to rap from, I used a biner. As soon as I got 20 feet down the rap,my partner yells "wait the gate is open!" Luckily I could climb up without letting go the brake. I went back to girth hitching.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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