climbing issue 198

Post by **Crankmas** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 6:14 pm

If anyone has this issue can they PM the advice on finger tendon pulley injury treatment, Thank you.

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:27 pm

I think nearly everyone on here has hurt a pulley. Rest and climb as long as it doesn't hurt much. That is my advice.

Post by **mcrib** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:32 pm

Ask Lurkist.

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:25 am

whats the copay?

Post by **Toy** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:33 am

Frank,
What Andrew said. I also found that if I taped the affected pad it didn't hurt when climbing and it healed faster. Ibu is good too, but only take it after climbing.

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:43 am

I went through it like 10 years ago or 12,000 shots of Jager which ever came last, its still swollen and hurts to mimmic the crimp position, Fat ass thin slab = belay slave- anybody projecting?

Post by **marathonmedic** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:31 pm

I remember goodguy had a couple of articles posted in the gym a while back from sports medicine sources about this sort of injury.

I just did a quick MedLine search and found a couple of things.

1. Most pulley injuries are either strains or ruptures (~60% ruptures in one study with 122 patients). Ruptures involved only a single pulley tendon in 90.5% of the time and were treated conservatively (without surgery). All specimens returned to their previous level of climbing in 1 year. Furthermore tested strength was equal between previously injured and uninjured fingers.

2. The only trial that tested the effects of circumferential taping of fingers to protect finger pullies had NO effect on failure strength. However, this was done with cadavers and they had a much higher level of multiple tendon failure than shown in living subjects.

In a nutshell, taping won't protect you. If you get a rupture, take it easy and give it time. If you have multiple ruptures, go see an orthopod.

Sorry this is kind of cursory, but I'm supposed to be studying now. If enough people want info on how to treat them, let me know and I'll see what I can dig up.

[/end unsolicited medical advice]

Post by **Ballss** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:29 am

I know the issue has been beaten to hell, but I feel that taping is in order for this sort of injury. While it won't add any structural support, it will keep your crimps open handed, which to my understanding is WAY less stress on your pulleys.

I blew a pulley in my ring finger about 3 months ago, and after resting it for a month or so I was able to tape both joints and "buddy tape" it to my middle finger. I gradually progressed to joints only, and now I'm climbing pain free with only my second joint taped. Just stop COMPLETELY if you feel any pain.

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 1:55 pm

Go see a hand therapist.

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:03 pm

I want no part of that money making machine.