Getting It Back

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:31 pm

Three big injuries and eight months later I'm finally back to climbing. I'm climbing less than two number grades below what I was previously climbing and man, does it feel hard.

Has anyone been there and have a ballpark as to how long it takes to get it back? I've had to take six weeks off before for an injury but this is much different. Fortunately I can climb outside three days a week and train in a climbing gym.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Michelle

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:33 pm

i took roughly 9 months off of climbing once...on my best tries, i was climbing 3 to 4 number grades lower than what i previously could. i think it took a month or two to get back to about the same level.

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:16 pm

I am right with ya Artsay. I was off for 5 months and I am still not 100%. I couldn't on-sight 10c on Saturday and I have been climbing consistantly now for about 4 weeks. It does take some time and it depends on if you were able to stay fit without climbing. In my case I did pretty much nothing for 5 months, so I am very unfit and carrying some extra weight. I don't expect to be climbing back to 100% until winter/spring.

I'd say keep doing what you are doing but be very careful not to over do it too soon. Lower your expectations and try to enjoy the process. After my last bad shoulder injury and surgery, it took me about a year to come back but when I did I climbed better than ever before.

Post by **rhunt** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm

oh and I took Spragwa's advice and climbed at the Shire this past weekend. It's a great rehab cliff, lots of comfy moderates to do laps on, just bring warm clothes, it very very cold at that cliff!

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm

8 months off and I watched her send an .11 on Saturday.

I think it will come back quickly, Artsay!

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:21 pm

rhunt wrote:oh and I took Spragwa's advice and climbed at the Shire this past weekend. It's a great rehab cliff, lots of comfy moderates to do laps on, just bring warm clothes, it very very cold at that cliff!

Although I didn't have 8 months, that is where I started with 6 weeks off and it was great!

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:35 pm

can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?

Post by **kirker** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:58 pm

pigsteak wrote:can we rename it the gumby/old fart/rehab cliff?

No don't do that it will draw a crowd.

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:17 pm

Meadows wrote:8 months off and I watched her send an .11 on Saturday. I think it will come back quickly, Artsay!

HA! Yea right...you walked up the cliff *after* I already fell all over the place. And getting to the top took every ounce of my being (unlike you who floated to the top of your warmup).

I'm like you rhunt...I didn't (couldn't) do anything upper body wise the whole time I was off and feel like a sack of potatoes with all the weight I've gained. Everything feels so dang hard...

One thing's for sure...
I have a whole lot more appreciation for how hard 5.10 is now.

Thanks for all the responses you guys...

Post by **ynot** » Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:00 pm

Falling off routes you sent 2 years ago is a bit disheartning. I just keep at it and take each day on the rock for what it is. Some days I send ,some days I go home with a smile in spite of not sending. You are young, you'll snap back.