I'm a 5.x Climber!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:17 pm

Lynne, I think the spray was an unintentional by-product of the self evaluation required to accurately answer the question.

Mj

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:20 pm

well I didn't want all y'all to feel bad so I refrained from spraying my amazing accomplishments.

You're welcome.

Post by **Huggybone** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:29 pm

I would have to agree with scone. To say 'i am a 5.x climber means that you are comfortable on any climb of that grade. I would have to say this includes runouts too. What do you think? do you have to be comfy leading 5.x X to be that grade of a climber? I'm very much a 5.4 climber in that respect.

I don't think that gives the whole picture, though. Whenever I find myself saying 'I ama 5.x climber' it is when I amlooking for a partner who can hang with the stuff I'd like to do that day.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:29 pm

I don't think there should be a distinction between sport and trad when one speaks of their climbing level. The only difference is in what type of protection is used. If you're going to differentiate between sport and trad then you may as well differentiate between crimps vs. slabs, chimneys vs. fingers, fingers vs. jugs, etc. It's all a matter of getting your ass up a section of rock and at what level you can do it as far as I'm concerned.

So, as far as I'm concerned, Power2U is a 5.10+ climber from what I've read. That's not a bad thing either.

Do you think Dean Potter, while soloing a 1000 foot route, is concerned with "Oh, it's a sport climb" or "Oh, it's a crack climb"? No. He's simply rock climbing. He is encountered with smudges, crimps, cracks, chimneys, etc. etc. It's all rock climbing regardless of the "features" you are using.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:49 pm

well since I suck equally at trad and sport, it works for me. However there are many incredibly accomplished climbers who have never jammed a crack (and never will). So if someone onsights 5.13x sport, are they only a ~5.4 climber?

I don't think so.

Post by **Gretchen** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:49 pm

Well then I am a 5.2 climber!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:50 pm

Why does any of this matter, anyway, unless you are looking for a partner and gauging compatibility?

Post by **SCIN** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:56 pm

Lynne wrote:well since I suck equally at trad and sport, it works for me. However there are many incredibly accomplished climbers who have never jammed a crack (and never will). So if someone onsights 5.13x sport, are they only a ~5.4 climber?

I don't think so.

In my eyes, yes.

Post by **Wes** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:57 pm

The grade you "claim" is totally unique to the situation. So, if I was looking for a partner in Sinks to do some clip up's I would be looking at someone who climbs 5.11-. If a trad partner for long, remote wind river routes - 9+, v4/5ish for horsepens, Indian creek, maybe 5.10+/5.11-.

A lot of it comes down to how well rounded you are. Some people focus more on one kind of climbing, and that is how they rate themselves. And that isn't really a bad thing.

Wes

Post by **Gretchen** » Wed May 14, 2003 2:57 pm

One mans opinion. I don't think the law of averages really applies to ths sport.