Princess Arch questions

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
twetherbee
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 10:12 pm

Princess Arch questions

Post by twetherbee »

Next week I'm going to be climbing with some gumbies for which easy toproping would be a blessing, at least for the first day out. Otherwise I'm going to have to play human ropegun and try to keep everyone safe...you know the drill. Anyway, the guidebook description of Pricess Arch lists an approach from the top and easy toproping. I've never been there, so I'm looking for any beta you can supply. Specifically, here are a few questions:

1) What do you find for building anchors at the top?

2) How easy is the rap from the top? Would it be okay for gym climbers, or would it be better to have them bushwack around?

3) Do the cracks take pro well if I lead them?

4) For toproping, do the routes belay better from the top or bottom?

5) Are the routes worth doing for introducing some gym climbers to easy crack climbing?

Thanks,
Tom
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

1. trees 2. easy 3. yes 4. bottom 5. no
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Don't do it.
Living the dream
User avatar
Ascentionist
Posts: 1081
Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:23 pm

Re: Princess Arch questions

Post by Ascentionist »

1) Sand and firewood (I'm serious)
2) Easy enough
3) Ripp-Off and Golden Fleece do, Finger Filet and Face Farce do not
4) Neither, lots of junk and dirt rain down on either the climber, belayer or both, but the lesser of evils would be to belay from the top so you can guard your stuff from tourons, but be prepared to answert rediculously stupid questions
5) Absolutely not
There is no TEAM in I
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

It was one of my favorite spots for a long time until I learned to lead. The routes are not very good, though.

ZSpiddy
gunslnga
Posts: 798
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 12:31 am

Post by gunslnga »

WHAT THEY ALL SAID, SOME OF IT IS JUST ROUGH SCRAMBLING FOR THE MOST PART.
The enemy of my enemy is my friend.....
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

its worth the hike to check out the view if nothing else, then you could do the scramble down off the end of the ridge and make the call yourself
rhunt
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

go to Muir Valley

...note - make sure all your gumbies sign the online waiver first
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
Crankmas
Posts: 3961
Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

Muir Valley is a great idea, can be a long approach if you park at Gladdie Creek though, but I'm pretty sure that the best place to park and all.
twetherbee
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2004 10:12 pm

Post by twetherbee »

Thanks all. That saves me some time and bother. I was planning on going to Muir, but later in the week when we have a full day. There's some great lines there for novice climbers. I haven't looked at the practice wall, just because I didn't need it, but with these folks it could be perfect. I noticed a route called Tradmill near the practice wall; any of you done it? It looks like fun.

Thanks again,
Tom
Post Reply