I've got some old hard-core traddies coming to visit me next week. They are seeking the best trad area's with the highest concentration of stuff in the 5.9-5.11 range.
Unfortunately, I've done nothing but sport since I moved to the area...so what I need is a list of what the best area's are for trad at those grades.
I'd mainly like to take them to area's that have the largest numbers of nice routes in close proximity to each other, so we don't spend all day driving from crag to crag, but if there are some crags that have 1 route so spectacular that they are worth going to regardless of what else is there, then I'd like to hear about it as well.
These guys really like cracks, so the best cracks are of interest to us too.
Any tips will be appreciated,
thanks
Trad area's
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Fortress is full of loose rock up high, so be careful topping out some of the routes and definitely wear a helmet.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
he said good jason, not many people like choss as we dohaas wrote:Gluteous
Maximus
Hole
fortress for moderates and some cool multi pitch routes as well as some hard stuff on the second tier. a good place to take a "rest" day from 5.11/10 climbing and just get in some cool pitches. dont go on weekends. if you do the kick ass routes on the second tier do be carefull with knocking stuff off on the people below like josh said.
muscle beach is offwidth heaven. may be a little hard to find but its worth it. the grades may not be big #'s but you will leave feeling like you had a solid ass kicking.
long wall rock wars and autumn are must dos for the area, they stay dry in the rain
indian creek like kris said, solitude and kick ass climbing. the place can be hard to find your first time and is a little hike in
wall of denial go on a cool day. awesome 6-10's but gets hot in the sun.
dip wall great stuff with a wide varity of climbing and grades. stays somewhat dry in the rain.
dunkan does not have a ton of routes but the beenling, whats left of the beenling and frenchburg overhangs are worth the hike and you will be alone
and if they like a little adventure trad they MUST do jungle beat at military.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com
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If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress