Trad area's

Innocent subjects that took a turn for the worst.
gbarnett
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:56 pm

Trad area's

Post by gbarnett »

I've got some old hard-core traddies coming to visit me next week. They are seeking the best trad area's with the highest concentration of stuff in the 5.9-5.11 range.

Unfortunately, I've done nothing but sport since I moved to the area...so what I need is a list of what the best area's are for trad at those grades.

I'd mainly like to take them to area's that have the largest numbers of nice routes in close proximity to each other, so we don't spend all day driving from crag to crag, but if there are some crags that have 1 route so spectacular that they are worth going to regardless of what else is there, then I'd like to hear about it as well.

These guys really like cracks, so the best cracks are of interest to us too.

Any tips will be appreciated,
thanks
haas
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Post by haas »

Gluteous
Maximus
Hole

check in with Red River Outdoors for all the beta :wink:
dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne »

Ask the crag sloth.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

Fortress Wall and Long Wall.
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Don McGlone
Posts: 567
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Post by Don McGlone »

Long Wall
Wall of Denial
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john e aragon
Posts: 287
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 7:45 pm

Post by john e aragon »

fortress (Hollywood BLVD!!!!!)
long wall (Rock Wars !!!!!!!!!)
because i can
goodguy
Posts: 454
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 5:13 am

Post by goodguy »

Solar Collector/Wall of Denial
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Fortress and Long Wall. No question.

Indian Creek Crag if you want solitude....
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goodguy
Posts: 454
Joined: Wed Nov 27, 2002 5:13 am

Post by goodguy »

Fortress is full of loose rock up high, so be careful topping out some of the routes and definitely wear a helmet.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
RRO
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:18 am

Post by RRO »

haas wrote:Gluteous
Maximus
Hole
he said good jason, not many people like choss as we do

fortress for moderates and some cool multi pitch routes as well as some hard stuff on the second tier. a good place to take a "rest" day from 5.11/10 climbing and just get in some cool pitches. dont go on weekends. if you do the kick ass routes on the second tier do be carefull with knocking stuff off on the people below like josh said.

muscle beach is offwidth heaven. may be a little hard to find but its worth it. the grades may not be big #'s but you will leave feeling like you had a solid ass kicking.

long wall rock wars and autumn are must dos for the area, they stay dry in the rain

indian creek like kris said, solitude and kick ass climbing. the place can be hard to find your first time and is a little hike in

wall of denial go on a cool day. awesome 6-10's but gets hot in the sun.

dip wall great stuff with a wide varity of climbing and grades. stays somewhat dry in the rain.

dunkan does not have a ton of routes but the beenling, whats left of the beenling and frenchburg overhangs are worth the hike and you will be alone

and if they like a little adventure trad they MUST do jungle beat at military.
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