Papa Love Jugs

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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robert birchell
Posts: 120
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 3:13 am

Papa Love Jugs

Post by robert birchell »

Would you please compare Papa Love Jugs and Return Chris Snyder.
I know the latter is twice as long as Papa. Is one more technical?
Any beta on both will be appreciated.
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Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Re: Papa Love Jugs

Post by Wes »

ROCS = Pumpy climbing, with really good rests.

PLJ = hard(ish) boulder problem to easy climbing, to one move at the top.

Totally different styles of route, though both feel right on at .11d

Oh, and both kick ass and are outstanding routes.
robert birchell wrote:Would you please compare Papa Love Jugs and Return Chris Snyder.
I know the latter is twice as long as Papa. Is one more technical?
Any beta on both will be appreciated.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

ROCS = fun
PLJ = more fun


To sum it up
PLJ>ROCS>brother stair
Living the dream
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Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

Andrew wrote:To sum it up
PLJ>ROCS>brother stair
..don't even get me started.. now i'm fired up and it's still the early morning..

;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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Yasmeen
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

It warms my heart to see that, Andrew, but you forgot to put <everysinglerouteatthered> between ROCS and Brother Stair.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
---
(Emails > PMs)
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chriss
Posts: 354
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:02 am

Post by chriss »

Both are outstanding climbs.

PLJ, as Wes said, has some harder moves down low and up high seperated with long moves on huge jugs in the middle. I thought that PLJ felt a little tougher than RCS.

RCS is a classic RRG climb, long and pumpy with no move harder than mid 10. You get three no hands rests, with the second being as bat hang. Milk the rests and the climb will feel much easier.

Have fun. For some other great 11d's check out seek the truth, velvet, ethics police, gold rush, government cheese, ... so many good ones at this grade!
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Horatio Felacio
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

i would appreciate a comparison of super slab and resurrection please wes.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
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Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Horatio Felacio wrote:i would appreciate a comparison of super slab and resurrection please wes.
One is steep and hard, the other is less steep, but harder.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
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Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

moves are alot harder on Papa but it is not nearly as pumpy. ROCS is just a pump fest Good holds but all pump. Moves are no harder than V1 I think. So for someone like me who has no endurance this route feels harder than Papa.
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
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hoss
Posts: 144
Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2003 2:11 am

Post by hoss »

A hint on Papa, after you're finished slapping up the Huecos (super rad), hit a crimp rail, match, and go big out left to the arete and ride jugs to the chains.
Today I quit my job. And then I told my boss to go fuck himself, and then I blackmailed him for almost sixty thousand dollars. Pass the asparagus.
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