Loose rock at Fortress

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
ewaaser
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 5:21 pm

Loose rock at Fortress

Post by ewaaser »

Just a reminder to anyone new to climbing at Fortress Wall, there's a lot of loose rock on and near the top of the main ledge. We had a large one get dislodged by another party near the top of Calypso I (the 5.7 route) and come crashing down about 3 ft from a belayer this weekend. If you're hanging around the base at Fortress, might want to stay away from any routes with a climber on them!

And yeah, I'm starting to re-think my helmet criteria.....
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

If you cleaned that ledge you wouldnt be able to walk the base there would be so much ruble. Anyone working the routes above the ledge knocks off stuff.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh »

Moving rocks away from the lip and back on the main ledge is the best bet.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
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dipsi
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Post by dipsi »

I put my hand out to pick up something at Fortress and a big rock just missed my head and hand. It actually cratered. Woosh, thump. I felt the breeze! :shock:
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Curmudgeon
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Post by Curmudgeon »

Sounds like it's time for a "Trundling" partay at Fortress!!!!

(Count me in !!!)
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

It would take a month to clean off that ledge.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
dyno_heaven
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Post by dyno_heaven »

thats why you should put your cams away and bust out the quickdraws...
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

Quikdraw? Isn't that what they did in westerns?
Be quiet, I'm training a whole new crop of traddies.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
mazzystr
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Post by mazzystr »

...and come crashing down about 3 ft from a belayer this weekend.

And no doubt that belayer was helmet-less... Jeeze, what does it take to be smart? Death???


Lifesaved 1 - This past spring my buddy volunteered to belay a dude he did not know on wadcutter. He dropped a quickdraw trying to clip the anchors. The QD landed not even a foot from him. My buddy was the only person at the crag wearing a helmet. I was sitting 50ft from the rock with near broken ribs and saw the whole escapade.

Lifesaved 2 - A different buddy kicked a 3feet log overboard from about 30ft from the belay station. It clunked me on the head and rolled down my back. I had bruises on my neck and back. It rang my bell something good.

Lifesaved 3 - Same buddy from number 1 was belaying me at left flank. I dropped a QD on him clipping the anchors. I have no idea how two QD's got unclipped when I unclipped only one. He was wearing a helmet and the QD landed a few feet from him.

Lifesaved 4 - My girlfriend got clunked by an unknown sized pebble as we were gearing up for Nutcracker in Yosemite. It sure sounded loud.

Lifesaved 5 - I was climbing ice and a lunchbox sized block of ice hit my head then shoulder. One second I was having a conversation with a fellow climber...Next second I was picking my carcas from the ground wondering what the hell happened (and rubbing my hurt shoulder).
chriss
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Post by chriss »

mazzystr wrote:
And no doubt that belayer was helmet-less... Jeeze, what does it take to be smart?

Lifesaved 1 - This past spring my buddy volunteered to belay a dude he did not know on wadcutter. He dropped a quickdraw trying to clip the anchors. The QD landed not even a foot from him. My buddy was the only person at the crag wearing a helmet. I was sitting 50ft from the rock with near broken ribs and saw the whole escapade.


Lifesaved 3 - Same buddy from number 1 was belaying me at left flank. I dropped a QD on him clipping the anchors. I have no idea how two QD's got unclipped when I unclipped only one. He was wearing a helmet and the QD landed a few feet from him.

Lifesaved 4 - My girlfriend got clunked by an unknown sized pebble as we were gearing up for Nutcracker in Yosemite. It sure sounded loud.
I can't remember the last time I saw someone at the red not wearing a helmet.

It doesn't sound like any lifes got saved there. Maybe if the belayer was paying attention he could have caught the quickdraw, and then something would have been saved. But I am glad the belayer was wearing a helmet (on a well established sport route) just in case the climber dropped a quickdraw. I am not sure what the other idiots were doing without the helmets, idiots I tell you.
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