Fixing Bolts with concrete

[JB]

note to self:

NEVER clip a bolt in Germany...

second note to self:

When were you planning on getting to go to Germany anyway? Loser!

never doubt german efficiency, precision and quality, sie germans are technically quite proficient (i.e. wunderkinder). besides, you may just fall in love with a german, join an oompah band, and trade in your business wear for lederhosen and live in the alps one day...i know i've given the prospect heavy consideration.
i wonder what kind of rock do they have that may be better suited for the concrete system?

You are right. I was mistaken. I am moving tomorrow. Goodbye all my friends. I will take up yodelling and then find some concrete rock to climb.

[Mandala]

So, we live here in Germany, and the bolts I have to say are really secure, but it's all limestone where we live (the Frankenjura). They only use one single bolt or pigtail at the tops of sport routes which really freaked me out in the beginning, but I have to say their bolts are in the rock pretty darn permanently. Not sure what they are using around here, cement or glue, but I don't think it would really apply since sandstone is so much different than limestone.

[JB]

well then, i'm going to go on an overnight drunk, and then tomorrow i will hunt down the concrete bolts that killed my friend, and destroy them.

[Paul3eb]

anyone who wants to tag along is more than welcome.

[JB]

i'll order you a knit cap and a speedo! where's my dynamite!?

[Frischbier]

We use this method in both limestone (Frankenjura) and sandstone (Pfalz) in the sandstone the local climber coalation advise this method as the only sensible because the sandstone there is very weak. Your doubts about durability i cant share: In frankenjura there were bolts placed in the 80´ and at a good weekend at fall maybe 50 climbers jump in. OK guys now I go climbing and jumping in some bolts placed with cement

[allah]

im a little curious how it all works, do you use the same materials as a a glue in just replace the epoxy with cement? what other tools are involed if any? and what is the size of the hole drilled? this is very interesting

[Frischbier]

Use stainless steel bolts, we use this bolts:
http://www.ig-klettern.com/klettern/haken.php
essential is that the surface is riffeld. I think
if your sandstone is hard enough the lengh should
be at least 8-10 cm , the diameter is normaly
12-14mm.
Placing:
1. drill a hole slightly falling 18mm is enough
2. clean it with a brush and blow the dust out
3. the hole should be a little bit wet, but no
water standing in it
4. fill in the "concrete" (normally 3 parts fine
sand and 1 part cement; read manufactures
advise), mix in rapid cement if you want to
reduce the curring time.
Im in the Red in october, if you are intressted
i could show you how it works. cu

[JB]

then i will fight the bolts, but will let them live.