What is

Post by **john e aragon** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 2:16 am

i don't climb 11 trad, but i think that Where Lizards Dare and Subatomic Fingerlock are 2 of the worst sandbags i've been on. i have also heard that Jungle Beat is stiff for the grade.

Post by **512OW** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:38 pm

stix wrote:i know....i've done it that way....i still think it's hard

An 11b one move wonder is gonna be a harder move than any move on a sustained 11b. Maybe thats why you perceive it as hard....

Post by **512OW** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:38 pm

john e aragon wrote:i don't climb 11 trad, but i think that Where Lizards Dare and Subatomic Fingerlock are 2 of the worst sandbags i've been on. i have also heard that Jungle Beat is stiff for the grade.

I could agree with calling Where Lizards Dare a 10a or so....

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:45 am

I'm no pro on trad grades because there ain't much in the red above 5.11 but I always thought Pink Feat felt harder than 5.11d.

Five Finger Discount spanks me for 5.8 but I suck at laybacking and have fat fingers.

Post by **kneebar** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 12:25 pm

Pink Feat looks scary as hell to me, my guess is it would be bolted if it was just put up.

Post by JB » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:23 pm

I once asked Ron Snider about routes up at Muscle Beach... his response:

"well... hell... i think we just top-roped most of that stuff... maybe we didn't. it's pretty cool what ends up in the guidebook"

Post by **ynot** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:40 pm

Sort of explains things. But then he was kinda non commital.

Post by **512OW** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:38 am

Yeah, Pink Feat feels tough for 11d for sure.... and its DEFINITELY old school climbing.

The Shining could easily feel tough for 8 as well....