What is

Post by **kneebar** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 8:31 pm

I usually find that if a trad route seems sandbaged I'm missing something or need to work on a particular technique.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 12:20 pm

merrick wrote:and i suspect Ro would have felt insane to a trad climber in the 70s. Sustained moves over such a steep angle was not exactly normal climbing then.

Exactly. Which is why I think Negative Energy was so grossly overrated.

Post by **Cliff Heindel** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:02 pm

astroman

Post by **ynot** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:23 pm

Those 2 slopers always shut you down,huh Gunny?

Post by **Ballss** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:26 pm

One of the Calypsos at Fortress is rated a 2 or 3. I put my gal on it as her first trad lead, and she's never led again.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:37 pm

Calypso 3 was 5.2 I think its 5.4 in rays guide now. I think Its hard to rate routes <5.5

Post by **ynot** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:38 pm

You missed the original start. It started to the left and up a ramp to the crack. It doesnt protect. direct is a 6 or 7

Post by **stix** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:40 pm

it's sorta a one move wonder, but i always felt the move on harder than your husband was tough for 11b. I know everyone has their little trick, and i think i've seen and tried most of them, but it's always a tough move no matter how i get through it.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:14 pm

stix wrote:it's sorta a one move wonder, but i always felt the move on harder than your husband was tough for 11b. I know everyone has their little trick, and i think i've seen and tried most of them, but it's always a tough move no matter how i get through it.

Theres a big drop knee off the seam in the roof behind you that makes that move totally static and not bad at all.....

Post by **stix** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 1:23 am

i know....i've done it that way....i still think it's hard