injury is a nice way to learn there is more to life than climbing. I am excited to have just gotten the ok to climb vertical jug hauls at the gym.
Improvement for me has always come from climbing a lot....not training a lot. I love the long endurance sport routes at the Red and for me the best way to train for those routes is to climb a lot and increase my cardio fitness level by running or exercise machines.
Yearly Progression
maybe that is the key..sooner or later, those who 'try hard" will reach the limit of their potential. stagnation, frustration, or plain burnout will ensue. anyone been there?
we then change up the "game" (go bouldering, go sport, go trad, go water soloing, ice, etc) to keep us fresh. in reality, is changing the game any different than just taking up chess?[/quote]
Interesting statement piggie, I've been there and sought out whitewater paddling for the past several years. I haven't climbed hardly at all in over a year now and the appeal seems to be returning. I've found myself conditioning and gym climbing a bit, technique is rusty and arms aren't there yet, but game is still within.
P.S. you had probably graduated to the pottie chair, maybe!
we then change up the "game" (go bouldering, go sport, go trad, go water soloing, ice, etc) to keep us fresh. in reality, is changing the game any different than just taking up chess?[/quote]
Interesting statement piggie, I've been there and sought out whitewater paddling for the past several years. I haven't climbed hardly at all in over a year now and the appeal seems to be returning. I've found myself conditioning and gym climbing a bit, technique is rusty and arms aren't there yet, but game is still within.
P.S. you had probably graduated to the pottie chair, maybe!
Obcessed is what lazy people call those of us who are dedicated!
I looked up someones tick list yesterday. I could tell where he quit trad climbing and started bouldering,then switched to sport. Lots of impressive gains, but hes also a well rounded climber and trains. Just climb everything. the gains will come.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
I truly believe that I'll be climbing 5.14 and V12 one day. It sounds silly and may never happen since I'm already 35 but it is what keeps me going. I'm not satisfied with lack of progress. I do think it takes a lot of natural talent (positive ape index, etc) to climb the freakish grades but I don't think it is impossible to for the average person if they just stay dedicated, motivated, and put their time in.
Numbers definitely play a big part for me because I'm a goal oriented person. They're not for everyone but definitely for me. Doesn't mean I don't enjoy climbing though.
Numbers definitely play a big part for me because I'm a goal oriented person. They're not for everyone but definitely for me. Doesn't mean I don't enjoy climbing though.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
On topic:
It took me many many years to advance a number grade at the lower numbers. Then it seems like recently I've just advanced leaps and bounds. I'm not sure whether its just climbing more outside or not, but I suspect that it definitely has something to do with it.
Goal-wise, I just want to be able to climb more stuff. Also, I've found that if I'm climbing 'harder' stuff, there isn't as much traffic on the routes.
I do find it interesting that some have number goals each year. I guess its whatever keeps you moving & climbing.
Semi-off topic:
Numbers are really only a guideline for me to sorta know if I can have a shot at the route...The weird part is those plateau's really screw with that idea. I thought that I'd have no shot at something that I'm working on now. I was out with friends, and got on another climb rated the same, and was surprised to be able to do the moves. So I ended up hanging draws on my current project because they were a bit tired from the first route.
I also find it interesting that everyone always tells me that I'm climbing way harder than I'm actually climbing...thats weird.
I'm sorta becoming like a friend of mine who's described his climbing as a 'tower of jenga.' Usually climbers have a lot of climbs in at a particular grade, less at a grade higher, even less above that. So for example JoeNewbie's spray might look like this:
10 routes at 5.4, 6 routes at 5.5, 3 routes at 5.6
Jenga style it would look like this:
3 routes at 5.4, 1 route at 5.6, 4 routes at 5.8, 3 routes at 5.10a
-Dale
It took me many many years to advance a number grade at the lower numbers. Then it seems like recently I've just advanced leaps and bounds. I'm not sure whether its just climbing more outside or not, but I suspect that it definitely has something to do with it.
Goal-wise, I just want to be able to climb more stuff. Also, I've found that if I'm climbing 'harder' stuff, there isn't as much traffic on the routes.
I do find it interesting that some have number goals each year. I guess its whatever keeps you moving & climbing.
Semi-off topic:
Numbers are really only a guideline for me to sorta know if I can have a shot at the route...The weird part is those plateau's really screw with that idea. I thought that I'd have no shot at something that I'm working on now. I was out with friends, and got on another climb rated the same, and was surprised to be able to do the moves. So I ended up hanging draws on my current project because they were a bit tired from the first route.
I also find it interesting that everyone always tells me that I'm climbing way harder than I'm actually climbing...thats weird.
I'm sorta becoming like a friend of mine who's described his climbing as a 'tower of jenga.' Usually climbers have a lot of climbs in at a particular grade, less at a grade higher, even less above that. So for example JoeNewbie's spray might look like this:
10 routes at 5.4, 6 routes at 5.5, 3 routes at 5.6
Jenga style it would look like this:
3 routes at 5.4, 1 route at 5.6, 4 routes at 5.8, 3 routes at 5.10a
-Dale
a couple letter grades a year is probably a good goal for most people. But you'll hit a plateau at some point. For most people I think that plateau is usually in the 12+/13a range. To break through that you'll probably have to climb more often, and actually train/diet etc...unless you're just super strong/skinny.