I totally disagree about Muscle Shoals. I think its right on. Footless?? Its all feet. Thats where the problem lies..... its a lower body route.
Whats Left of the Beeneling is right on as well. No question. The OW part is only about 5.7 or 8.
The Beeneling might be a little sandbagged.
Most trad routes in the Red are right on or have a history of being (often severely) overgraded.... like Burden of Dreams, Synchronicity, Andromeda Strain, Negative Energy...
The Specimen might feel like the most sandbagged route in the Red to alot of people.....
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
As one of the only people who has been on it, how do you feel about "Here Comes Batman"?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
I think the grade is probably right. I blew that little pocket out, so if that was relied on, it might feel harder, but upside down armbars and shoulder scums worked just as well.
Its unfortunate that the top of that thing is such soft rock. The moves through the sandy part are ultra cool.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
There certainly are sandbags out there. Overall though I believe routes that were put up in the 80's and 90's are generally harder than the routes being put up today of the same grade.
tcu wrote:There certainly are sandbags out there. Overall though I believe routes that were put up in the 80's and 90's are generally harder than the routes being put up today of the same grade.
I disagree with that as well. I think climbing styles have changed...and people are looking at different types of routes.
Some routes just climb "old school". They're gonna feel harder to a gym climber than Ro Shampo or something similiar.....
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
