Yearly Progression

[Yasmeen]

From the spring of 2005 until the spring of 2006 I pretty much maintained the level I was at with sport. Since then I've noticed the slightest of increase in strength, probably just a letter grade, but it's nice to see improvement.

[One-Fall]

Jim Karn? Jim Karn? Jim Karn was a pig farmer. Man, piggie, you are old. As someone who is much newer to the sport (1993) I now understand your sharp/harsh wit. That's the way it was done back then.



(off topic, but you have put up some sweet routes lately. THX).

[pigsteak]

lol...Karn was the most cynical guy out there.

[merrick]

I think improvement should be a direct result of how hard and smart you work.

Are you training weaknesses, are you staying disciplined, are you focusing on one style, are you going to hueco to geta power boost, are you listening to bio-feedback so you don't get injured?

In the two years I climbed full time I made massive improvements but the first year, hardly any related to numbers. The second year I hunkered down and just focused on bouldering and jumped 3 to 4 v grades in a 6 month period.

if you have the luxery to climb full time and just build your life around it, you should be expecting different results than if you are a weekend warrior.

Also wes's comment on progress slowing down the further up the difficulty scale you get makes a lot of sense. Climbing is a game of subtlety and improving small nuances of your game is harder than learning how to hand jam or not overgrip.

[Meadows]

(off topic, but you have put up some sweet routes lately. THX).

That's because he got sick of trying so he took up bolting.

And remember what Yoda said, "Do or do not, there is no try." Skychick modified it to, "Go big or go home."

[pigsteak]

actually, ms. meadows, I got sick of getting stuck at my plateaus....energy expended was waaaay more than the reward given....bolting has given me back that energy/reward ratio.

maybe that is the key..sooner or later, those who 'try hard" will reach the limit of their potential. stagnation, frustration, or plain burnout will ensue. anyone been there?
we then change up the "game" (go bouldering, go sport, go trad, go water soloing, ice, etc) to keep us fresh. in reality, is changing the game any different than just taking up chess?

[merrick]

it depends if you are a climber or a sport climber.

If you are a sport climber changing to trad or peak bagging is like learning chess.

Otherwise there is are endless facets of climbing to get motivated by.

That is really the key, stay psyched!!! climb what ever is keeping you up at night, if you get frustrated switch it up.

[Meadows]

I was just kidding ya, Pig. Taking up chess is changing the game, but it's good to walk away from time to time or completely if necessary.

[pigsteak]

no worries meadows....bolting had/has me psyched. the energy from those currently developing at the Red is contagious.

It started with Jared getting me excited, and continued with Matt's energy.

well said merrick..whatever floats a person's boat, go do it. I always thought, if climbing isn't fun anymore, go get a new hobby/sport/game/job to pursue. many times, those who are most psyched on climbing hate their jobs or have no clue what they want to "do with their lives", so they throw that excess energy into climbing, to have a passion.

climbing is not the only thing to life...(I know...blasphemy )

[One-Fall]

I tend to avoid burn-out because of the people I surround myself with. They are just cool people to hang out with, and they don't secretly hope fall from the chains.

Changing it up is cool too. For me, it is much less noticable as say sport climbing to peak bagging. For me, changing it up is going from overhangs one season to vert routes.