What is

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 5:24 pm

I can't really think of any trad routes at the Red that felt sandbagged. That may mean that I should hang up the draws and go get on some old school 5.8+ trad lines...

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 5:28 pm

RRO,

you aren't getting a response because traddies don't spray like sport wienies.

plus, 90% of the people who "climb" in the Red weren't even born before 1980, so they would have no perception of "old school"..that is merely a movie will ferrell starred in.

Post by **rockman** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 5:29 pm

Head and Shoulders (on gear)

Post by **charlie** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 5:35 pm

I'll second Beeneling. I remember thinking Dog Days was a bit heady as well, chossy mud fest that is that topout. Most of the climbs I've done at the small walls were solid, but those were olde school so it was expected.

Biggest scariest thought I was gonna die sandbags I can remember were Up Swift Creek and Red Hot Chilli Pepper. That was a very scary day for me.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:10 pm

You're a climbing machine ,Yas. 5.8 is like romper room for you. try some of the hard OW. I tried bouldering the first moves of What's Left of the Beenling. It's a really sick sized crack. I heard that Sassafras Tease is a sandbag but I couldn't find the crag from the top. Guess I'll have to try the usual approach.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:15 pm

After the Fact wasn't sandbaged until the tree broke off. It's 8+ now if you go direct. Still a 5 if you go out around on the right face. I didn't do it! honest. But I found the alternate finish.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:53 pm

The Beenling and What's Left of the Beenling feel harder than they are rated. But then again What's Left might have felt hard because I have no OW technique. Curving Crack is kinda wierd. A committing move into the upper wide section, but I'm not sure it is a sandbag. I've always watched out for routes with a + or - in the grade. But don't listen to me, its ben so long since I last climbed that my memory has dulled a bit.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:07 pm

Ken's new chimney/OW route is a sandbag.

Thanks for the compliment ynot. I don't know, though... Crouching Tiger shut me down pretty hard.

Maybe I'm in a sort of trad purgatory right now...

Post by **ynot** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:10 pm

Nickel Night is a sandbag. I'm sure I'll think of more but most routes are only off by 1 number. Stuff breaks ,routes get green again. The lichen on lots of obscure routes always make them seem harder because you cant trust your feet.
Muscle Shoals gets my vote for the most notable sandbag. That crack is footless.When you start foot stacking it's like being stuck.

Post by **One-Fall** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:34 pm

Its not trad, but Tic-Tac-Toe is the hardest 12a in the gorge IMO.

As for enjoying the sandbagging, it is a little fun when people who just sent Ro ask if they can get on TTT next so they can get 2 12s in a day.

I always offer up my rope and sit back and enjoy the show . . .