Core strength and conditioning

[OB Juan]

I apprecaite your post hugh, an I admit that I was not considering injuries to the fingers but only the major limb joint and musculature. I'd like to see your data supporting your post it looks quite interesting. In starting the thread I was actually thinking about wrist, elbow, shoulder, knee and ankle injuries. All of which can be minimized to some extent through proper core training. It's interesting that you brought up polymetrics, for the benefit of the rest I think it's important to say that (simply put) it is the study of balance between protagonist and antagonist muscle groups associated with a given movement or force appied to a lever (limb). Lack of balance between protagonist/antagonist muscle groups is another significant factor in joint and tendon injuries to major limbs. But alas, the topic of another thread maybe.

My intent initially was not to say that core weakness was directly the cause only a significant contributing factor, one that is often overlooked. I see how interpretation could be otherwise. To those of you I've offended please forgive me. I just really got pissed when I was asked to present my credentials and then crucified for being educated in the field.

I do not work for Dr. Ireland but I did put in an internship at Joyner. I'm currently with another facility.

[the lurkist]

I don't have and research that I can cite, other than the discussions in whatever text regarding sports medicine/ orthopedic injuries and the explanation of the mechanism of injury to the upper ext injuries I mentioned. Basically the commonly accepted mechanism for the pathologies I mentioned in the previous post are as I stated in the previous post.
My other resource would be 10 years of experience seeing and treating these injuries and my evolving understanding of these injuries and their causes.

[Paul3eb]

And nothing like a little loss of humility for an example to the above discussion.
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=2102
photo by Dan Brayack <dbrayack@gmail.com>
thanks Danno

careful!

with a core-shot like that someone is bound to get hurt!

[KD]

I didn't know gays brought down the wtc! no wonder pres. bush doesn't like them.

[KD]

hey! the president's last name has been word filtered to "shrub" - shouldn't it be ***** hair? (edited after thinking about it some)

[OB Juan]

Lurkist, I've not forgotten or dropped this thread I just want to give the proper dedication to my response. and am a bit short on time at the moment. If You would, for the sake of the thread please clarify the region of injury for the Cruciate pulley strain, I assume your discussing the hand and not the knee, though my intended discussion would be the knee as the cruciate pulley of the hand is far removed from compensation of the core. Also clarification of the region of Retinaculum would be helpful as you could be discussing the hand or the ankle. When discussing the epicondylitis injuries I'm guessing you mean the medial and lateral epicondyl of the elbow as opposed to the medial and lateral epicondyl of the knee where the FCL and TCL attach.

I intend to address the injuries, rehab methods and benefits ot each region attained fro m core conditioning where appropriate.

[Crankmas]

I once got some turned out to be cotton from I suppose my drawers inside the hole in my wee wee, hurt like hell when I peed, thought I might have you know, the malady as Hemingway referred to it as, turns out a little deft use of an old scapel I had cleaned it up otay, aren't palates and yoga, isometrics the ideal core conditioners?

[Caspian]

...A few of the most common climbing injuries are 1. A-1/ A-2 or cruciate pulley strains. 2. FDP/ FDS(flexor tendons of the fingers) tendon strains/ ruptures. 3. Rotator Cuff injuries (Supra Spinatus probably being 90% of these. 4. Long Head of the Biceps inj. and accompanying SLAP tears of the labrum. 5. Medial and Lateral Epicondylitis. 6. Retinacula strains of the wrist. 7. other odd tendonopathies of the wrist (TFCC inj).
I don't know the specific order of these, but for sure the pulley injuries are #1.

These are all upper extremity injuries...

[OB Juan]

OOPs I guess you fuckers will need to do your own research

[pigsteak]

is falling to your death the number one injury? that wouldn't be finger or "other" related...