Climbing Magazine Quote

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One-Fall
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Climbing Magazine Quote

Post by One-Fall »

Dave Schmidt's article "La Escuela" states that to be strong in America means you climb 13b. Except for the obvious 8a conversion, I don't understand where/why this grade was choosen?

Can someone fill me in?[/i]
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

It's probably his hardest redpoint.
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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh »

I'm just pissed its not 5.10 anymore.
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Wes
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Post by Wes »

I say "5.13b is the new 5.12"
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the lurkist
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Post by the lurkist »

Isn't that the standard that the Swedish guy who authors the 8a.nu site uses? He says that hard climbing starts at 8a (13b). I don't know on what he bases that conclusion, but it might be just collective agreement in Europe. Maybe Schmidt is just copying his idea.
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

12a is for slackers and chumps....
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Post by Yasmeen »

Stop whining, you'll get there some day, piggie ;)
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gbarnett
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Post by gbarnett »

Seems like 13a would be a better number.

Most mortals can break into 12's with a lot of training. Doesn't seem to happen much with 13's though.
Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

13a seems like a better number for americans, but 8a is a better number than 7c+ for Euro's
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tomdarch
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Post by tomdarch »

Poor Austrailians, they don't realize that when the progress from 28 to 29, they are suddenly 'real climbers'! Sucks to be them!
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