Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
One-Fall
Posts: 843 Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 12:27 am
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by One-Fall » Fri Jul 07, 2006 4:57 pm
Dave Schmidt's article "La Escuela" states that to be strong in America means you climb 13b. Except for the obvious 8a conversion, I don't understand where/why this grade was choosen?
Can someone fill me in?[/i]
Can't we all just get along?
SCIN
Posts: 4932 Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm
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by SCIN » Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:19 pm
It's probably his hardest redpoint.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
ReachHigh
Posts: 1784 Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:17 pm
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by ReachHigh » Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:22 pm
I'm just pissed its not 5.10 anymore.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
Wes
Posts: 6530 Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm
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by Wes » Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:25 pm
I say "5.13b is the new 5.12"
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
the lurkist
Posts: 2240 Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
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by the lurkist » Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:47 pm
Isn't that the standard that the Swedish guy who authors the 8a.nu site uses? He says that hard climbing starts at 8a (13b). I don't know on what he bases that conclusion, but it might be just collective agreement in Europe. Maybe Schmidt is just copying his idea.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
pigsteak
Posts: 9684 Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm
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by pigsteak » Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:34 pm
12a is for slackers and chumps....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663 Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am
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by Yasmeen » Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:45 pm
Stop whining, you'll get there some day, piggie
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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gbarnett
Posts: 39 Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:56 pm
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by gbarnett » Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:44 pm
Seems like 13a would be a better number.
Most mortals can break into 12's with a lot of training. Doesn't seem to happen much with 13's though.
Andrew
Posts: 3809 Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm
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by Andrew » Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:42 pm
13a seems like a better number for americans, but 8a is a better number than 7c+ for Euro's
Living the dream
tomdarch
Posts: 2407 Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm
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by tomdarch » Fri Jul 07, 2006 11:08 pm
Poor Austrailians, they don't realize that when the progress from 28 to 29, they are suddenly 'real climbers'! Sucks to be them!
Bacon is meat candy.