Core strength and conditioning

Quit whining. Drink bourbon. Climb more.
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

dmw wrote:Yeah. I saw that article yesterday..... I think while learning to spell phonetically probably makes more sense, I do also agree with the author that it would be hard on children who are learning as we speak to switch to a new system of spelling.
I disagree with changing to the system. As the author points out, our words are formed by roots that have meaning. We'd have to change way too much and end up with chaos over spelling words as they sound. What about all the dialects in this country? I see too many pidgins resulting from this idea.
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

I can debunk OB Juan ... I have strong abs and popped a tendon in my finger recently.

However, I see validity in OB Juan's claim. I'm finding that as my abs get stronger, I rely less on my arms for climbing moves and have fewer needs for a shoulder rub at the end of a hard weekend of climbing.
gbarnett
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:56 pm

Post by gbarnett »

Is there some kind of bug on these forums? words like _i_ and /y/o/u/ seem to be getting replaced with "wes" and its really confusing me.
k9
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:45 pm

Post by k9 »

I don't see anything strange happening on this forum...what are you talking about? Does anyone else see anything unusual?
User avatar
ReachHigh
Posts: 1784
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:17 pm

Post by ReachHigh »

may the Wes be with you.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
k9
Posts: 21
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 3:45 pm

Post by k9 »

I know my climbing - and everything else I do - is just "easier" when my core is stronger. Any movement is easier, more confident, more balanced...all the sports I do are easier and more relaxed, more fun, and I don't hurt afterwards.
gbarnett
Posts: 39
Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 5:56 pm

Post by gbarnett »

nevermind. I guess its standard practice here on friday...
User avatar
pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

less need for a shouler rub? one good reason to never get your core strong then....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
dmw
Posts: 2104
Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 1:48 pm

Post by dmw »

Even if you don't need one, never ever make that comment. Don't you like shoulder rubs? My shoulders ALWAYS hurt. ;)
OB Juan
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 11:53 am

Post by OB Juan »

"Wes'm tired of so called experts who are unwilling to listen to the real world experiences of those they are supposed to help because they are educated and supposedly know better. Just because Wes have a degree doesn't mean that Wes are any good at what Wes do." Quote from flyinglow

Assuming that because I have a degree in something I'm discussing on this board is a poor excuse for assuming that I don't know what I'm taking about, or that I'm not good at it. Flying low you have provided nothing beneficial to this thread yet found your place in assacinating the charater of my posts. You ar a high school drop out (according to your own post) and yet I haven't jumped to the conclusion that your a fucking idiot. No, I've tried to present information to for those of interest and your acting out in ignorance. Have you ever heard the phrase "better to keep your mouth shut and let people think your stupid than to open your mouth and remove all doubt". I'll copy the after part of my orignal linke that you and gbarnett both left out.

"Core conditioning and flexibility is but one cog in the wheel of injury prevention, but one that is often overlooked. A full evaluation should be completed before a rehabilitation program includes these exercises. These exercises should be performed with the supervision of an ATC or PT in an otherwise healthy individual with no major medical concerns."

As you know that information comes from the ACC, that stands for Atlantic Coast Conference, they're members of the NCAA which stands for National Collegiate Athletic Association. That's pretty damn credible. You want stats on climbing injuries related to poor core strength, there are none, its not a significant enough athletic community for anyone to do a specialized study, but you should already know that. If you want research data go dig it up. I would start with the American Journal of Sports Medicine, then move to the athletic deptartments of the major universities or the American Journal of Medicine.

The reason Core training has become more popular in recent years is because its becoming known in the medical and athletic communities that the benefits of preventing injury to the limb or re-injury come from strengthening the core muscle groups to reduce strain on limb joints and tendons.

As for finger tendon strain the only thing to help is taping. the fingers are not intended to support the weight of the body, and that type of strength is specific to climbing. You want strong fingers, climb alot of finger pockets and tiny crimpers, and tape up well.
Obcessed is what lazy people call those of us who are dedicated!
Post Reply