Glue-in Bolt Test Results at Muir

[dhoyne]

Cool. Excellent idea.

[rocknice2]

HEY GUYS
there's some problems with your test

Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:07 pm
<"A FIXE 3.5-inch stainless steel 10 mm glue-in "eye bolt" was inserted in a 12 mm diameter hole filled with Hilti HIT-RE 500 2-part "Adhesive Mortar" and allowed to cure for 24 hours at a mean temperature of about 55 degrees F. ">
<"The FIXE glue-in started to fail at 3358 pounds at which time it started pulling from its hole. It continued to be pulled for about an inch with a declining force from 3358 down to 1500 pounds at which point it was one inch out of its hole">

the hilti RE500 adhesive can take 36 hours to fully cure at 55deg. F. and if it was cooler at night it can be up to 72 hrs(@35 F.)
was the eyebolt cleaned before hand if not the light coating of grease or oil will hamper the bonding reaction remember this is a chemial reaction(eyebolt bonds to glue,glue bonds to rock)(GLUE HARDENS)
I suspect a combination of the two since the bolt pulled out clean

and to replace glue-ins
1: heat the eyebolt just above the rock (3/8") for a few minutes
2: stick prybar (2ft.) through eye and pry out
2a:if it doesn't comeout all the way repeat step 1
3: redrill using same size drill
4: blow out dust FROM THE BOTTOM OUT not from top in
5:BRUSH HOLE
6:repeat step 5
7:WAIT FOR ROCK TO COOL

now your ready to intall new eyebolt
this procedure works very well JUST DONT BURN YOUR ROPE
I USED MY FUNKNESS TO SECURE MYSLEF TO ANTHER BOLT ABOVE ME

[weber]

HEY GUYS
there's some problems with your test

Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 10:07 pm
<"A FIXE 3.5-inch stainless steel 10 mm glue-in "eye bolt" was inserted in a 12 mm diameter hole filled with Hilti HIT-RE 500 2-part "Adhesive Mortar" and allowed to cure for 24 hours at a mean temperature of about 55 degrees F. ">

The hilti RE500 adhesive can take 36 hours to fully cure at 55deg. F. and if it was cooler at night it can be up to 72 hrs(@35 F.)

Thank you for your input.

Hiliti HIT-RE 500 specs packed with the adhesive show full cure in 24 hours at 50 degrees F. And, notice I said "mean" temperature of 55 degrees. That is the average temp for the 24 hours. It was into the sixties during the day. So, plenty of time according to my Hiliti specs to fully cure.

was the eyebolt cleaned before hand if not the light coating of grease or oil will hamper the bonding reaction remember this is a chemial reaction(eyebolt bonds to glue,glue bonds to rock)(GLUE HARDENS)

Yes, the bolt was cleaned with trichloroethane 1,1,1 degreaser.

I suspect a combination of the two since the bolt pulled out clean

The epoxy/stainless steel bond failed because we pulled it beyond its limits of adhesion. The epoxy/stainless steel bond breaks before the epoxy/sandstone bond, leaving the bolt to cleanly exit the epoxy "sheath."

Rick

[ljthawk]

Though old, some additional information and links can be viewed at

http://www.imdl.gatech.edu/ljthawk/fixed_anchors/

There's a "red neck testing" file that shows the technique of countersinking an eye bolt to minimize bending moment and the potential of twisting; though the bolt used for demonstration purposes was not a climbing bolt, but rather a less expensive non welded eye bolt to show how weak they are.

L.J.

[rocknice2]

Hi Rick;

Thanks for the reply. I'm intersted in these results because I'm placing FIXE 10mm. glue-ins in sandstone (a rare gem here ). Most of the rock here(Quebec, Canada) is a type of granite and I generally use Rawl 3/8 but decide to use glue ins for their stonger pull-out stenght in softer rock. Apparently not so, according to your tests.
One more question the eyebolt you used was it the one with dimples or the one with the grooves?
What do you think about taking coarse sandpaper and sanding the shaft radially?

Chuck

[Spragwa]

Stix. I think your full of shit. no offense but if a belayer gets pulled into a roof and the climber is falling at full speed then the force of the climber falling will just continue to pin the belayer to the roof.

Stix is not full of shit.