Visiting -- looking for cla ssic trad

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

if you go to long get on vector trouble as well. it is a nice line.
Back from the Dead!
riptide
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:41 pm

Post by riptide »

Well, Thanks for everyone's advice. We were unable to get our work done until Saturday, and since we were driving back Sunday and it was a 9 hour drive back to Charleston, SC we only climbed one route.

We decided on Autumn at Long Wall. It was a really great climb. Very fun.

We probably drove past the trail to the wall 3 or 4 times, and once we got there it was very deserted which was kinda neat and pleasant. It definately would have helped us find things faster had there been more people around, though.

I belayed my boss on his lead up the crack and then my brother climbed it and finally myself. It was the first time I belayed lead, but I had instruction on doing it before and I had seen it done. It was also my first for cleaning the pro and top anchor.

As I was getting ready to rappel down, I went to unclip my last beaner connecting myself to the bolts, and I accidentally turned the lock the wrong way and way over-tightened it... that sucked... I spent half an hour up there trying to open that dang beaner. I had to eventually wrap the rappel ropes off on my leg so it'd keep me up there, use one hand to use a tool to tap on the beaner and the other hand to loosen it.

Anyway, it was tons of fun, and a great bit of excersize before the long trip back (which I drove 8/9 hours for). Thanks for the info on the routes!
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Jeff
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

Good choice.
I love the hunk of rock where Autumn and R-Wars is.
To me it looks like a chunk of the west transplanted in Ky.
The hike is one of the worst at the Red though!
Glad you got to sample!
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der uber
Posts: 1044
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:42 am

Post by der uber »

Go to the Red River Gorge area, it is awesome there. Get on some climbs there.
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

You took a half hour to clean the anchors and hosed your boss out of doing Rock Wars? I would have fired your ass on the spot.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
RRO
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:18 am

Post by RRO »

by saying "fired" are you meaning pound hard ? your a strange man lurk, a very strange man.
http://www.redriveroutdoors.com

If you need to contact me , email me. Less Internet, less stress
riptide
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:41 pm

Post by riptide »

the lurkist wrote:You took a half hour to clean the anchors and hosed your boss out of doing Rock Wars? I would have fired your ass on the spot.
Hehe, actually I'm not sure he would've been up to Rock Wars afterwards... we spent a good bit of time figuring out how to get there, dragging ourselves up to the rock, and then figuring out what route was what. We were all fairly out of shape, and he wasn't sure he could lead another that day.

Our business in Lexington wasn't a one-time thing, so we'll likely be back to do Rock Wars and others... and if not, I'll likely be back some day on my own.
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

Good to hear your boss was forgiving. Rock Wars is definitely a route to come back for (even from SC).
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
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