Safely Cleaning a Top Anchor

Post by **weber** » Sat Jun 17, 2006 7:45 pm

We've installed a top anchor system 8 feet off the ground at the Bruise Brothers' Wall (just to the left of "Send Me On My Way") in Muir Valley. This provides a safe location to practice cleaning a top anchor and rappelling off while an experienced person stands by and observes everything the climber is doing.

And, here is a link to an MV page where climbers inexperienced with cleaning a top anchor and rappelling off can freely download a 10-page photo-illustrated tutorial on the subject in pdf form. (Sized for fast download.)

http://www.muirvalley.com/pdf-clean.html

Rick

Post by **bryanboonern** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:43 am

You think of everything Rick. You need to be commended for all of the emphasis you put on safety in Muir Valley. You have truly created a wonderful place to climb.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 12:33 pm

excellent addition Rick

Post by **overhung** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 1:27 pm

how freakin' nice is this guy? his altruism makes me feel like a selfish bastard.

Post by **wirednut** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:06 pm

Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.

Will

Post by **Paul3eb** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:18 pm

wirednut wrote:Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.

Will

so wait...... what? are you for or against rapping down to clean a route? sorry, just confused by the post.

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:43 pm

Paul, he voted for it, before he voted against it.

Unless the route is very steep, the last climber should always rap.

Post by **dipsi** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 5:46 pm

One more reason to love the Webers!

Post by **weber** » Sun Jun 18, 2006 7:53 pm

For MV news and announcements of route status and conditions, new areas opened, events, volunteer activities, bolting booklet downloads, bolt and hardware testing results, AMGA TRSM courses at MV, and risk management booklet downloads, please go to: http://www.muirvalley.com

This site is being expanded and, hopefully, will be fully updated within a couple weeks.

Rick

Post by **wirednut** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 11:45 am

Paul3eb wrote:
wirednut wrote:Thanks for the effort. Except for some scenarios not often seen at sport crags, I always argue against rappelling to clean a route. For those that feel they must rappell, or when circumstances indicate it, this seems good.

Will
so wait...... what? are you for or against rapping down to clean a route? sorry, just confused by the post.

I don't know. I confused myself.

Oh yeah, now I remember: rappelling sucks.