Fixed Gear Anchor Failed ..

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 22, 2006 6:06 pm

No photos of the event. Hey was right at the piece (small brass nut) about 15 feet up, and said take. So I lowered my camera and just watched the scene unfold.

Post by **Zspider** » Mon May 22, 2006 7:52 pm

Well you got a great climbing story to tell for the rest of your life. Congratulations! Also, of course, glad you are OK.

ZSpider

Post by **One-Fall** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:25 pm

So glad you and your brother are ok, Chris.

Post by **ynot** » Mon May 22, 2006 10:42 pm

Sounds like the route Wes warned me about the anchor on. It was in choss. I'm glad you're both OK. It was a long time ago but I remember that sketchy anchor. The route wasnt that good either. Sounds like people have added gear since I was on it.

Post by **Wes** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:30 pm

ynot wrote:Sounds like the route Wes warned me about the anchor on. It was in choss. I'm glad you're both OK. It was a long time ago but I remember that sketchy anchor. The route wasnt that good either. Sounds like people have added gear since I was on it.

Yep, I remember now. Crappy route that Chester talked me into getting on.
I remember thinking, as I was rapping of off the "fixed gear" a few years ago that the gear was going to pull the flake off, I would hit the ground, unhurt, and look up just in time to see the big flake land on me. Crappy route, I think I renamed it "did I tape my hands for this?".

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon May 22, 2006 11:42 pm

what is the FS definition of "anchors" and can these unsafe fixed gear anchors be replaced with actual bolted anchors? I realize this route is crap, but I'm thinking of another crappy route that I actually like with a scary fixed anchor: attack of the sandshark. I'll pay for the hardware if someone will put it up.

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 23, 2006 1:58 am

I kinda like that route too. I think Chris just put new webbing up on it. He said he was going to cut the old stuff off and do it up right,but I'm not sure he did. Now he's off to Yosimite
That little dish for your foot is slick as snot aint it?

Post by **dhoyne** » Tue May 23, 2006 12:15 pm

Sandy wrote:what is the FS definition of "anchors" and can these unsafe fixed gear anchors be replaced with actual bolted anchors? I realize this route is crap, but I'm thinking of another crappy route that I actually like with a scary fixed anchor: attack of the sandshark. I'll pay for the hardware if someone will put it up.

C'mon. There's at least 10 pieces of webbing around that tiny chock stone that serves as an anchor. That's bomber!

Seriously, I was going to post the same thing. I'm not a fan of that anchor even though I love that climb.

Post by **TradMike** » Tue May 23, 2006 1:50 pm

Statistically, it's not the climbing that gets ya, it's the descent. Good thing a second didn't come up and clean the gear.

Post by **Colorscholar** » Wed May 24, 2006 3:08 pm

There is nothing like a set of low profile ring anchors at the end of a trad climb. All hail Fixe!

Best,
Colorscholar