I have scoped out a few new* lines here and there, but can't seem to get motivated to go do them. It just seems like to much work, as I would rather spend my time climbing nice clean routes, not bushwacking all over hell and back, getting covered in dirt and lichen, and leaving gear to get back down. But, putting up a route would be pretty cool as well. And I can see how the adventure would be pretty cool. It is just hard for me to justify the time.
Wes
* By new, I mean unpublished, but probably undone.
Are FA's really worth the effort?
Are FA's really worth the effort?
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
I just think it would be cool to have a little part of the climbing world associated with you. Plus I'm sure it would be a really memorable experience; whether it be a pleasant one or not, it would probably make a great campfire tale!
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
A traditional FA is a way to get on the rock in such a way that only the FA can. If you get an FA, then that is it, no one else can get that. You are the one and only person who will EVER have that from a route. For every FA is completely new with no tick marks or chalk of any kind for that matter, and there is no beta being sprayed from anyone on the ground. It just seems to me to be the best way to be a part of blazing a new path for future climbers, and you are imortilized in some form of climbing history.
Keep in mind however, that this is forever, good or bad.
Keep in mind however, that this is forever, good or bad.
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
Wes, if the lines don't get you psyched don't bother with them. Always climb what gets you psyched!!! But Yasmeen has a point about the stories (right 88keys? why is it always so epic when we go climbing? oh #$#%!!!!)
Plus, think about the scars. Like I have this scar on my wrist. When some climberchic asks about it, who wants to be like "well, I was working Bare Metal Teen...." no man! You want to be like "so I was putting up a new desperate jamcrack at ubersecret crag..."
Plus, think about the scars. Like I have this scar on my wrist. When some climberchic asks about it, who wants to be like "well, I was working Bare Metal Teen...." no man! You want to be like "so I was putting up a new desperate jamcrack at ubersecret crag..."
I'd look at it more from the perspective of where climbing began. What is more pure than finding an obstacle and overcoming it? The rock is there, you're walking along and come face to face with it, so you break out your gear and climb it (assuming it's an ACTUAL "top-out" where you would have to climb OVER the face to continue on your path to wherever - even though this isn't the case, I would like to see more real "top outs" on climbs, and less of this 10' from the top stuff). Anyway, I see THAT as the more "romantic" side of climbing...the "why I train" aspect. All this climbing I do, I do because I enjoy it, but also to make me a better climber should the time come when I actually NEED to climb something. Well, here you go, here's your "never been climbed, walking through the woods, rock in my way" opportunity. Personally, if I were a Trad climber (too expensive right now), that's exactly what I'd be hoping to find. I say go for it. 
"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself."
D. H. Lawrence
D. H. Lawrence
I've belayed Ray up several of his routes and he shows more motivation for these than any other established route I've belayed him on. Even classics RRG routes. It just gets him so fired up....the unexpected....the not knowing....
I'm not really sure what it is for him, but it's sincere. It's not about getting his "name in print" or climbing something dirty. And it's not about showing scars from an FA at a supersecret crag or something to tell his friends. I think maybe it's gotta be something visionary...something I can't understand and haven't experienced. And I think it's this quality in him and many others that has made the RRG the world class climbing area that it is. Their contributions to the area make our climbing world a reality.
And dlewis101 - You are talking about the Red River Gorge, right? Man, the Red has a lifetime of quality FA's for the taking!
I'm not really sure what it is for him, but it's sincere. It's not about getting his "name in print" or climbing something dirty. And it's not about showing scars from an FA at a supersecret crag or something to tell his friends. I think maybe it's gotta be something visionary...something I can't understand and haven't experienced. And I think it's this quality in him and many others that has made the RRG the world class climbing area that it is. Their contributions to the area make our climbing world a reality.
And dlewis101 - You are talking about the Red River Gorge, right? Man, the Red has a lifetime of quality FA's for the taking!
How do you know if a FA, is really the FA? We put up routes that we think are FA's, but this area is so good it must have been climbed before by someone else. I've climbed routes that I claimed were first ascents only to find out someone led it fifteen years ago. Not talking about the gorge.
I've had just about enough of this shit.
I agree Artsay. For me, it's just the thrill of the adventure. I just look at a line and get intrigued with possibilities. The lines that look like they won't go (by me, anyway) are the most fun, like Images, Hollywood Blvd or even Game Boy. Sport routes have some adventure too, but they are more like "seeing" and "creating" a route than trad is. I do love seeing how the movement of a route unfolds. After I've done a trad FA, I think that I've somehow gotten away with something I shouldn't have (ie, like humans really shouldn't be able to do that). I also really enjoy splorin' and get excited when I'm about to hike around a corner in anticipation of what might be there. There is a huge component of wandering and dirt like Wes was saying. I guess my short memory helps.
On the other hand, I have great trouble in returning to classic routes that are projects. I'm sure if I work at it, I could do Twinkie or Chainsaw, but it just feels like working out on a gym route to me after about the second or third try.
On the other hand, I have great trouble in returning to classic routes that are projects. I'm sure if I work at it, I could do Twinkie or Chainsaw, but it just feels like working out on a gym route to me after about the second or third try.