Lame Wade wrote:... I've approached this scene many times. In this case if the rude climbers do not give way and are active on other lines I go ahead and pull their rope to the side and do the lead anyway. They are being rude and you owe them no respect in my book. Had this experience many times at Devils Lake in Wisconsin. Almost every time it has involved members of the CMC (Chicago Mountaineering Club). Never really had a problem with this in the Gorge.
What? Don't you know that the CMC owns the park?
Seriously, though, Devil's Lake is a perpetual cluster f**k. Walk the top of the east bluff and count the number of TR setups along the lines of one ratty sling tied to a sapling with one oval biner and the rope sawing over the edge of the clif. Also, the CMC does run clinics and they deserve some slack for that, but they should be over on the less popular west bluffs.
dlewis101 wrote:... I once had some words with a guy "guiding" his climbing club up and down and up and down Face up to the Crack and Mr. Bungle when I was with a friend who was new to climbing. He said the climbs were "reserved". What jerks.
I was just thinking what his reaction would be if you asked him to show you his reservation slip. What? They didn't fax you back your route reservations? Who'd you send the check to? Oh? Well, I guess you didn't get a reservation. If you run to the RRGCC's offices in Stanton, you might be able to clear it up right away. He wouldn't want to be arrested by the Forrest Service Rangers for unlicensed guiding....
When it comes to pretty much any popular route at the Red, I never have a problem with anyone being there 'cause it's the middle of the week. It's sort of a curse on the other hand if you need a climbing partner on a regular basis. I was lucky enough to hook up with a group of 5 last week though! And they had the fortunate task of truckin' my ass out when I fell off the horn up on Autumn (..another story...) and sprained my ankle. I don't normally climb in group, but I'm glad I did that day. I'd never climbed Autumn or Rock Wars (fell before I could do Rock Wars) and didn't know they were classics. They climbed that crag all day and we didn't see another soul for the rest of the day. That was Wednesday. All ya have to do is get days off during the week!
