Thanks for the test results.
Glue-in Bolt Test Results at Muir
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the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
Alot of bolts regardless of where they are installed will loosen the first time they are used but once retorqed to spec will hold. I never saw the problem with bolts loosening after they are installed as long as they are retorqed before they had a chance to wear in to the bolts.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
interesting. i like the amount of work going into this, even though it seems like overkill a lot of the time.
lurkist, if you are talking about stock threaded rod, it is significantly weaker than a traditional bolt. I've seen threaded rod bend and break in situations where a regular timber bolt of a smaller diameter has held. I bet it would definitely bind with the glue well, but i don't knoe if that'd help it much.
everybody keep in mind that even when rick has an awesome system worked out for bolting, climbing will still be dangerous and stuff could happen. be safe. nothing is foolproof.
lurkist, if you are talking about stock threaded rod, it is significantly weaker than a traditional bolt. I've seen threaded rod bend and break in situations where a regular timber bolt of a smaller diameter has held. I bet it would definitely bind with the glue well, but i don't knoe if that'd help it much.
everybody keep in mind that even when rick has an awesome system worked out for bolting, climbing will still be dangerous and stuff could happen. be safe. nothing is foolproof.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
I would really like to see the strength of just a threaded rod. I don't know alot about different grades of metal, but you would think that there would be some threaded rods that are of a little higher quality metal. I bet your standard threaded rod would hold more than enough weight. I have seen standard threaded rods bend too, but usually in situations where there is some leverage. There is not a whole lot of leverage when all of the force is put on the rod right next to where it come out of the rock. I would think 5 or 6 inch threaded rod of a decent grade would be really cheap and strong.
I think I might start bolting some routes with wooden pegs. They worked in all the old barns that still stand today.
I think I might start bolting some routes with wooden pegs. They worked in all the old barns that still stand today.
Living the dream
