Climbing style: OS lead versus TR second

[Ascentionist]

Your body is in fight or flight mode, giving more attention to the perceived danger of the unknown. YOur body knows top roping is really for pansies and doesn't go on the alert when you're getting ready to second.

[Spragwa]

I tend to climb more efficiently on lead as well. Unless I'm petrified. Some days, I'm just plain skeered.

[kek-san]

I was on "Supress the Rage" at Sunnsyside in Muir (soft 12?). Good belayer and high spirits seemed to keep the fear in check. Can't wait to get back on it.

[pigsteak]

kek-san..you are the first person out of 5-6 to say that route was soft. can't tell you the people who have said i sandbagged it at 12a (just saturday someone said to me "there's no way that thing is 12a..solid 12b at least")....my point? it's all in perception.

also, that thing is very well bolted, almost to the point that the first few bolts are too close together. a good belayer would only be valuable to let you know you z clipped

you send that..you've sent a 12

[Andrew]

That route is 11b at most.

[kek-san]

I was on "Supress the Rage" at Sunnsyside in Muir (soft 12?).

I wasn't saying it was a soft 12. Really I was asking what it goes at. I haven't been on enough 12's to know what a soft 12 feels like. Some of the Muir ratings are soft (less so now that they are getting modified online) so I can never tell.

That route is 11b at most.

Thanks. I was starting to get a big head. I feel better now.

[rhunt]

10c...11b in the summer

[pigsteak]

what do the french know about grading routes?

[naw]

Something else to think about is how much you were eating/drinking through the day while you were climbing. I've gotten on routes on lead and had a fairly easy time with them and after eating/drinking too little over the next couple hours I've gotten back on them on TR and flailed because I felt so fatigued. I'm sure it's probably more the concentration issue like others were saying but fatigue is something else to consider.