Hardest Trad Route Yet?!

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
Andy
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:48 pm

Hardest Trad Route Yet?!

Post by Andy »

An inspiring ascent of a trad line possibly harder than the hardest sport route sent in the Red to date went down in Scotland! The climber was Dave Macleod and the route was the extension to Requiem. I love it when limits are pushed and boundaries broken. Climbing reports that he took 8 or so 50 foot whips on thin pro (a nut)... He's either crazy and doesn't care or pushing his mental limits as well as physical.

Check it out: http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/macleodrequiem/

Just thought I'd spew some spray for those who are also inspired by high end climbing exploits...
"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go."
-- T.S. Eliot
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

wow.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

i saw that earlier and immediately thought about how much time i'm not training and then about how much time i can start to spend training.. that type of mental capacity along with pushing yourself physically..and pushing the bounds of the sport/activity/hobby today..

why am i typing and not training?
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
DJMike
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Post by DJMike »

There was an old aid line that some guy did on trad and renamed to iron monkey. I dont remeber who it was, I think it is located in Eldorado Canyon's Kloof Alcove, but he rated it at 5.14. All I can say to these guys is, wow.

update: it was Matt Segal
I flashed your mom, she has a stiff crux, but after the first few moves it's smooth sailing.
dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne »

I don't like running out trad gear 15 feet, let alone 50.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

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Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb »

dhoyne wrote:I don't like running out trad gear 15 feet, let alone 50.
that'd probably get you about a forty-footer with stretch and catch.. his fall was fifty feet, not his runout.. not that take away any from the size of his.. err.. mental fortitude ;)
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
haas
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Post by haas »

DJMike wrote:There was an old aid line that some guy did on trad and renamed to iron monkey. I dont remeber who it was, I think it is located in Eldorado Canyon's Kloof Alcove, but he rated it at 5.14. All I can say to these guys is, wow.

update: it was Matt Segal
Daniel Woods repeated it right after he heard that Segal was proposing 5.14a. It was quickly downgraded to 5.13c, not that that isn't still really strong or anything.
Andy
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:48 pm

Post by Andy »

Paul3eb wrote: why am i typing and not training?
Exactly my thoughts. Hearing/reading about crazy hard climbing exploits always motivate me to get out and try hard... even when what I'm straining at is hardly a warm up for those with the "mental fortitude" of Macleod. Man, and reading about exploits like these AND having this beautiful weather really makes me itch to grab some rock!
"Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go."
-- T.S. Eliot
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

it is already too hot...i want winter again.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

I hear ya dude. The holds will soon be beyond optimal.
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-Horatio
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