Bolt jobs

Discussions full of RAGE!
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

allah wrote:no no no my bolts cros over the start of that route thats all, i forgot that it was a route when i bolted it mainly cause i had that line in my head for a long time and when i got a drill to use i put it in not thinking.
Thinking with your drill again instead of your brain. :twisted:
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

Yea it was you drill crusty old man, dont worry i whiped it clean hahahaha

And i always think with my drill instead of my brain :twisted:
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

let us not pick on the old crusty guy too much. His drill doesn't get the work out it once did.
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

The hammer setting is hit or miss. The rotary setting still works, but that's not as fun.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
RRO
Posts: 1949
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:18 am

Post by RRO »

sandy,
ok here it is. we get allah on fmm. while he is trying to use his tiny sport brain figuring out the anchor with crumbly #5/6 cams we block the far side with chockstone. once he gets in the tunnel he will see there are no crimps or pretty features to use and his tiny sport brain will flip out yet again. by that time we will have pushed over the loose belay ledge on the opening. the skinny little f'r will starve to death in a matter of days. thats the only rational thing to do.
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haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

sounds like a plan to me
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

I can't afford to continue buying hangers, therefore I'm going to do my part to start putting up more mixed routes. Anytime there is a crack or horizontal that takes good gear on a route then it will no longer get a bolt. Also, as long as they are clean falls, then I'm going to start putting them farther away up high on the routes because it is too damn expensive. The routes will still be relatively safe, but it might be helpful to carry a few tcus or tricams to protect the runouts.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

Sounds like NC. The last ten sport routes I did required at least two or three pieces of gear, and they were sport routes. I have a new found respect for bolting or the lack of bolting, since I have moved to NC. Moores wall has a very strong ethic about bolting and anchors. You will never find a bolt anywhere near a place that will take natural pro, even if the placement would be crappy. Most routes don't have anchors, you have to use a shared anchor, and alot of the routes are very runout. I have been on alot of 12+ and 13 sport routes that require a few pieces of gear.
Living the dream
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