Partial Reopening of Muir Valley

[Artsay]

From Rick Weber:
======================

We're Back!... well partially, anyway.

With the efforts of a big group of volunteers working with our developers, these areas of Muir Valley are now re-opened: All of Rebel Camp Branch, including Bruise Brothers Wall and Sunnyside; Johnnies Wall, Tectonics Wall, and the Indy Wall (all of these in the Tantroft Hollow). Part of the Great Wall has been inspected and we hope to open it and the Great Arch area tomorrow -- depending on the amount of help we receive.

Here's the rule: Please climb ONLY those routes that are marked with either a yellow or green ribbon attached to the first bolt. Please do NOT move ribbons or climb routes that have not been inspected.

We are entering the data collected during the inspection into our route database at this time. And, we are very pleased with the condition we found the hardware in on these very heavily used routes. Dozens of bolted hangers and only one loose hanger found. No finger-loose bolts, and most of the bolts were found to be at or beyond 40 foot-pounds of torque. We Loctited EVERY quicklink to eliminate the problem of quicklinks being snitched off the climbs. When it becomes time to replace them, we will simply bolt-cutter them off.

We closed and removed all the bolts on Methane Rising on the Bruise Brothers Wall. Although this line had only one problematic bolt at the crux, the developer, JJ, elected to remove this route to avoid controversy. Refer to JJ's post for more details.

Again, a big thanks to Jared, Karla, JJ, Rob, Jenn, Bob, Matt, Mike Trabel, Mike Susko and Statia, Keith, Jeff and Teresa Neal, Rick Bost, Catie, Ivo, Alena, Roger VanDam, Paul, Dave Hoyne, George, and a group of four terric Candadians from Montreal. (God love the Canadians!) And I'm sure I've missed a few Important contributors, for which I apologize.

There is still a lot more to do. If any of you wish to climb in the Valley and check out some hardware while doing so, please contact us or show up tomorrow morning (Sunday, April 2) at the Main Muir Parking Lot.

Rick

[weber]

Again today. a great group of volunteers hit the cliffs to inventory and inspect hardware on MV climbs. Consequently, in addition to the climbs opened Saturday, the Great Wall is open, as is much of the Solarium and almost all of the Hideout area. Rick Bost of the Eastern TN Climbers Coalition and friend Kim knocked out much of the Great Wall and a few climbs in the Solarium. A large Indy group administered by Karla checked out the rest.

Emphasis was put on the more popular climbs, and I believe that the routes inspected comprise about 90 percent of the more popular lines in MV.

Bottom line: If you see a green ribbon on the first bolt of a sport route or on the top anchors of a trad line in the Valley, the route is good to go. Please stay off the un-ribboned routes.

Most of the other climbs could be open within two or three weeks.

Thanks again to a great bunch of torque wrench wielders and Loctiters!

Rick

[dhoyne]

Just a small addendum: on mixed routes, I put the green ribbon on the first bolt, which sometimes is a bit up. Just look for it. On trad routes, the ribbons are on the anchors.

[Artsay]

You all are amazing!!!!

Good work!

[Andrew]

I have a question, what is the inspection process, becuase if you guys are climbing each route and putting a torque wrench on each bolt, then that is a hell of alot of work. I am really impressed. Not to start another arguement, but I still can't believe people complain about sport routes. All the time, money, and effort someone else puts into something and then someone complains about it. If you feel something is unsafe either don't climb it or fix it yourself. I just don't get it.

Thanks again to the Webers and all the volunteers, you guys are awesome and a priceless resource. If I still lived near the red I would be helping you guys out becuase I kind of feel guilty for all the work you do and all the people climbing there that don't realize it. Thanks again.

[squeezindlemmon]

Each route was climbed then the anchors were checked for torque. The type of anchor setup was also noted (cable, chains, quicklinks, rings, rap anchors, etc - including the brand of hardware). If the anchors had quicklinks, red loctite was applied (if they can be undone with the use of a wrench). Next, the torque on each bolt/hanger on the entire route was checked. Again the brand of hardware was noted. Any rust or corrosion was also documented as well as additional comments (ie: the 2nd bolt has a fixed draw attached to it, etc). Then a green/yellow tag was tied on the first bolt.

We actually had lots of fun this weekend climbing. Just a whole bunch of cheery people + gorgeous weather. The routes sure were different from the first time we put them up! Thanks to everyone involved. We met so many cool people.

[Andrew]

I am still amazed at the amount of work you guys decided to do. Thanks for checking everything out even though I don't find it neccessary. I think everyone who climbs at the red needs to first climb some of the bold mixed routes in NC. Runout over 15 year old 3/8th and 1/4 inch rusty bolts will teach them a thing or two.

[dhoyne]

It was a bit of work, but can you really call it work when you're climbing? A torque wrench, crescent wrench, and bottle of good old Loctite doesn't weigh much more than a few cams. I didn't see a single loose hanger all weekend. In fact, the only thing that scared me was one of J.J.'s grand entrances - drop a rope from the top of the cliff on a very overhanging route without saying anything and rap down 15' behind us. 8)

Plus, any weekend you get to see Jared stuck in a squeeze chimney 50' up, arms and feet dangling, is a good weekend.

[Spragwa]

Awesome job everyone. Thanks so much for giving to this community!

[ynot]

You didn't get a picture of Jared stuck in there? That would be great stuff.
Team Muir is the shiznickity.