Wheel of Time

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

J-Rock wrote:Do we need to ask the Forest Service permission or is it acceptable to "rebolt" currently existing routes without their permission? Just curious.
Rebolting is OK with the FS.

Wheel looks way rad. I would be more likly to at least give it a try if there where new bolts on it. I remember someone talking about it and the crux isn't in the steep section, but once you get into the vert section near the top?
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

drom what I have heard, the route hasnt seen a second ascent. does anyone know if it has seen a second ascent or more?
Toy
Posts: 292
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 9:16 pm

Post by Toy »

Yes it has seen a second. The boulder problem right off the deck is the tech crux, but the long stab to a slot at the bulge is hard too.
Power2U
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

Post by Power2U »

I bet it is stiff for the grade, as Dave Hume is strong and to him 13b was just easy. It is cool to see people gettign off the beaten track and shing interst in forgotten / lost routes. I bet this thing is really good climbing... it will go on my to do list once I clean up a few other gems I've been eyeballing.
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

this thing is fun as hell! and i would feel a lot better if it where rebolted.. but the rock seems to be questionable throughout: i pulled off a pretty big spot (didn't make it much worse) and barely touched a foot to send it groundward. the moves were fun as hell but i wonder how long it'd stay around.

i had a hell of a time getting past the third bolt (ie: i stick-clipped past). looks like a pretty decent hold was ripped off. the section was just about blank for nearly my wingspan. is there something i was missing? any beta? i bailed before the long stab.. the way the route had gone to that point, every time i thought i was coming to a jug i was wrong: by the time i got to that move i had lost all confidence anything was something to really toss to. if the slot is good, the move shouldn't be too bad. and the boulder problem off the deck wasn't bad at all just touchy (a big hold looks ready to explode.. but was a little more solid than i exected).

anyway, i'd be up for seeing it rebolted. can't quite dedicate the time or money to having it done right now.. but maybe this fall..?

fun route, great moves.. worth it to check out.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
allah
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 4:10 am

Post by allah »

I would have had it done last summer like i said i would but my drill was stolen and i havent yet had the chance to get a new one, i have some bolts and hangers just waiting to be used
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