Climbers' Code of Ethics

Post by **Wes** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:51 am

Gyms are not the problem or the solution, just an easy scapegoat.

I would think a very brief, page or two long, cliff notes version would be a much better idea. Easy to read while waiting in line at Miguels, etc. If you pass them out at the cliff, then I would bet several would end up as trash at the cliff.

Post by OZ » Thu Mar 23, 2006 1:42 am

I don't think the sole solution is to try one or the other. Might as well use a shotgun approach. But I can picture this with the pamphlet thing:
"Dude. Wha ya readin'?"
"History, Ethics and Rules".
"Cool.Whatever, Brah".

Again, it should be at least tried until Miguel wants to close his place to climbers for all the litter from the brochures.

I still think it would be wise to make it part of the limited learning that begining climbers get in the gym. Learn to tie a figure eight and learn not to dogpile on a single route. Learn how to belay and learn not to TR through the anchors. Gyms are producing people that climb, but are not doing much to produce Climbers.

That being said, more experienced climbers that have a newbie or two under their wing should be setting a better example. And those with perfect ethics should be schooling the rest of us. Dammit.

Post by **itmeansgod** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:25 am

Hey guys, I learned to climb in a climbing gym, and they taught me a lot more than you give credit for. For example, a lot of new climbers don't want to make the monetary commitment of a whole set of quickdraws, so they taught us this neat trick to get by with only one: you just clip the one draw to your belay loop, then when you get to a bolt, immediately go in direct. Untie your rope, pass it directly through the bolt, then tie back in. then you can unclip your draw and keep on going until the next bolt. This technique is especially good for new climbers, because they usually don't have enough endurance to do outdoor routes, and this gives them a nice long rest at every bolt. So there you have it, all the rack you need for $15! Plus, it makes cleaning a breeze! I bet none of your old-school, lycra wearing, hobnailed boot climbing mentors taught you that!

Post by **Toad** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:30 am

Cool. But did they tell you how badly you'd mess up your expensive rope if you fell?

Post by **ynot** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:35 am

Sounds like a really bad idea to me. What do you think is going to happen to your rope when you fall on it doing that?

Post by **Paul3eb** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:37 am

..i'm pretty sure he was kidding guys and gals..

Post by **DJMike** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 2:38 am

might as well just free solo

Post by **Toad** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:45 am

Really? Who's kidding the kidder?

I just don't want anyone to get hurt. It does say gumby under his name.

Post by **Cliff Heindel** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:06 am

Ethics suck for no other reason than it means accepting that someone else's opinion matters.
Alternately, climbing is 'Freedom of the Hills,' to use an existing tag.

Wes, I disagree that gyms don't bear some responsibility to the exterior world. In as much as a gym is a synthetic reproduction of places like the Red.

But, there are just an overwhelming number of unnecessarily inconsiderate and selfish people, whether they climb or not. The 'issue' of ethics in shared space is not one of climbing as much as
resource use outside the bounds of 'markets.' As a culture, climbers have, perhaps, shared values including freedom from other people's opinion. I just hope that 'esthetically,' we can agree that climbing outside of gyms is valuable, unique, and worth preserving BECAUSE there is an environment of mutual respect and admiration.

Post by **Caspian** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 1:18 pm

itmeansgod wrote:Hey guys, I learned to climb in a climbing gym, and they taught me a lot more than you give credit for. For example, a lot of new climbers don't want to make the monetary commitment of a whole set of quickdraws, so they taught us this neat trick to get by with only one: you just clip the one draw to your belay loop, then when you get to a bolt, immediately go in direct. Untie your rope, pass it directly through the bolt, then tie back in. then you can unclip your draw and keep on going until the next bolt. This technique is especially good for new climbers, because they usually don't have enough endurance to do outdoor routes, and this gives them a nice long rest at every bolt. So there you have it, all the rack you need for $15! Plus, it makes cleaning a breeze! I bet none of your old-school, lycra wearing, hobnailed boot climbing mentors taught you that!

Kidding or not, for the benifit of those who dont know, this is likely very dangerous advice that "itmeansgod" suggested they learned from experienced climbers. Although I have never seen ropes tested this way, I think this technique will severely damage your rope with a potential to partially or completely sever your rope.