Must do/Must avoid up to 5.10a for new lead climber

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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hoss
Posts: 144
Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2003 2:11 am

Post by hoss »

If you're going to be at Muir Annie the Annhilator is probably one of my favorite 10's, plus it's short. If you're going to be at left flank Defy the Laws is also a great easy ten with a no hands rest after the crux.
Today I quit my job. And then I told my boss to go fuck himself, and then I blackmailed him for almost sixty thousand dollars. Pass the asparagus.
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maxclimb11
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 11:31 pm

Post by maxclimb11 »

hmmm....lets see,,,, Rat Stew (bruise bros) kokepelis dream (Sunnyside) i think Moots Madness at great wall is a liitle bit harder than 10a but its still a good route a little bit of a runout between third and fourth bolt.
visit my minicity it needs your love http://maxopopolis.myminicity.com/
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DuppyC
Posts: 144
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:53 pm

Post by DuppyC »

Thanks for all the suggestions, the trip was great.
"No one has to do something he doesn't want to do for the rest of his life. But then again, if that's what you end up doing, by all means convince yourself that you had to do it; you'll have lots of company." HST
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dah-le
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:03 pm

Post by dah-le »

So do tell..what'd ya climb?
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DuppyC
Posts: 144
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:53 pm

Post by DuppyC »

Day 1) Roadside Attraction(tons of fun), C-Sharp B-Flat, Ledger Line
Day 2 we had BruiseBrothers Wall all to ourselves) A-Beano, CH4, The Offering and Send me on my Way.
Day 3 we had to leave by noon) Face up to that Crack(my favorite lead so far) and Mr. Bungle.

I hope to get back soon to knock down many of the other suggestions. But, it was a great weekend.
"No one has to do something he doesn't want to do for the rest of his life. But then again, if that's what you end up doing, by all means convince yourself that you had to do it; you'll have lots of company." HST
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dah-le
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2005 7:03 pm

Post by dah-le »

Great picks... Whenever I do Face up to that Crack, I think of a friend of mine who did it as his first sport lead. He was looking much better after slotting a piece of gear in the crack.
-Dale
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charbee13
Posts: 214
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2004 10:46 pm

Post by charbee13 »

get stronger
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Andrew
Posts: 3809
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:40 pm

Post by Andrew »

How about the second half of his question?

Avoid:
Brother Stair
Fastfood Christians
Sunshine
Moonbeam
Mercy Miss Percy
and I know I am missing some classic crap piles
Living the dream
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Paul3eb
Posts: 2445
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

avoid:

awol (if you're new to it, the second clip is tough)
denita delores
..and all the ones andrew mentioned

oh, and thanatopsis
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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bryanboonern
Posts: 41
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 2:48 am

Post by bryanboonern »

Avoid:

Lord of the flies (Phantasia wall)- Short and way too much rope drag.

Dragon mouth (Muir Valley - Practice Wall)- Potentially bad falls. Poor anchor placement.
You could slit my throat and with my one last gasping breath I'd apologize for bleeding on your shirt. - Taking Back Sunday
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