Best Concentration 5.10-5.11

Post by **naw** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:56 pm

I'm coming to the Red for five days in May, it will be my second trip. I climb mostly at the NRG but also out in Tennessee and boulder quite a bit as well. I've spent the past few months doing a lot of bouldering, so while my strength and power are in top shape my endurance leaves something to be desired. Since this trip will be the beginning of my route climbing for the year I want to take it easy and adjust myself casually, so I'm looking to onsight/redpoint as many 10s and 11s as I can over a 5 day period. I'm not really used to so much overhanging climbing, most of the routes as the new are a little more technical and powerful but less pumpy (at least in the 11-12 range). What are the best areas to tick off 10/11s all day? It seems like Muir Valley has undergone a lot of development since my last trip so that's a definite possibility. If anyone could offer some good suggestions I'd really appreciate it. Thanks in advance,

nate

Post by **Andrew** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:05 pm

I have heard that Torrent is good.

Drive-By
Muir obviously

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:27 pm

I second Muir.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:59 pm

muir, but with their rating system.....

(sorry squeeze...couldn't resist

)

Post by **ynot** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 10:58 pm

Where isn't there buttloads of 10s and 11's? Take your pick except the trad crags.

Post by **agrigabe** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 12:38 am

Besides Muir and Torrent, I'd check out the skybridge, roadside, the playground, and--if you climb trad--long wall. As ynot indicated, you've got a lot of options.

Post by **Sco Bro** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:11 pm

Drive By. I cannot believe that no one has mentioned it. As previously noted, Skybridge is another cool option for 5.11's.

Post by **Spragwa** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:13 pm

Andrew mentioned drive by first thing.

There's also Roadside.

Post by **Sco Bro** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:22 pm

To borrow from Homer Simpson: "Dooooh."

Post by **naw** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:09 pm

Thanks for the replies. Last time I road tripped to the Red I just got on a bunch of random stuff and didn't really attempt to project anything so I'm hoping to actually tick some routes this time. Coming from doing a lot of bouldering over the past few months and doing mostly vertical/less than vertical routes last year, can I expect to get my ass handed to me pretty hard trying to redpoint 11s at the Red? I'm bouldering about V4/V5 right now but my endurance is terrible. Oh well, I'm sure it'll be an awesome time regardless. Thanks again for the suggestions.

nate