Johnny, did you guys have to scope the lip out first or did you just go for it? What's the FA story? What a unique route! You could have also called it "Hip Replacment"
http://siren.bio.indiana.edu/images/cli ... 020-50.jpg
Wishbone
We totally went for it after exploring the ridge and soloing up to the "window". Major props to Ron Snider (who is gullible and not quite right if you know what I mean). We were pretty strong in those days from doing construction jobs and loved looking for and attempting roofs. I still chuckle remembering Ron doing that super-wide stem (and he wasn't very flexible) and he was almost in tears trying to keep his feet on the rock. It was crazy watching him have to downclimb to get to the lip to pull over it. I've never known anyone to even get on the thing, much less repeat it.
I figured whoever did the FA must have been pretty ate up. Staring at that chockstone in your face you have no idea what the heck to do or which way to go. I really thought I'd have to go around the south side of the stone but my belayer finally convinced me that would lead to a not so good result so I took the impossible looking north side. There are probably some feet for pulling the lip but I didn't have the technique or time to hang there so I ended up doing a couple desparate campus moves. Talk about a warm up route!
Danny, you're my hero!Danny wrote:I figured whoever did the FA must have been pretty ate up. Staring at that chockstone in your face you have no idea what the heck to do or which way to go. I really thought I'd have to go around the south side of the stone but my belayer finally convinced me that would lead to a not so good result so I took the impossible looking north side. There are probably some feet for pulling the lip but I didn't have the technique or time to hang there so I ended up doing a couple desparate campus moves. Talk about a warm up route!