Re-equipping routes
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flashmaster
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 7:00 pm
Exactly, let the climbers work up to a grade. it's not a route that you should work on. It's one you want to flash and never get on again because of the way it runs. It was one of the headiest climbs I ever did because of this. And also what Horatio said. Personally I'd be really really pissed if someone rearranged the bolts mostly because It wouldn't be fun to throw solid hard 12 climbers on it and watch them quiver anymore
There should always be sorta scary routes out there to do, for those that want them. I think 99.999 % of new routes should be safely bolted, and I think the old bolts need to be replaced. Sometimes it is nice to move a bolt around a little while rebolting. Completely rebolting a route is a trickier thing though. Never been on Hen-ry, so can't say one way or the other. I like kinda scary routes sometimes though.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
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Cliff Heindel
- Posts: 190
- Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2004 12:57 pm
Andrew, How could someone else doing the route after you make what you did less? I also did kampsight, pre bolt moving (not adding, btw), and find the route much better as it is now.
So, maybe hen-rey is a killer 5.11 slab route that all 5.11 leaders should experence, but the way it is bolted is keeping them away. Which might not be a bad thing. If the mantal route had a couple more bolts, it would be one of the very best 5.10 sport lines anywhere, yet as a mixed route, it sees very little traffic. It is tricky to me on what to change and what to leave sometimes. It is cool for more poeple to be able to get on a good line, but at the same time, I really feel there should be some sorta bold lines out there, at all grades, for people who are into that to experence. We have a ton of well bolted lines at all grades in the red, so maybe it is best to leave a few of the older routes at each grade as "sporty" rather then turning them into just another sport route.
So, maybe hen-rey is a killer 5.11 slab route that all 5.11 leaders should experence, but the way it is bolted is keeping them away. Which might not be a bad thing. If the mantal route had a couple more bolts, it would be one of the very best 5.10 sport lines anywhere, yet as a mixed route, it sees very little traffic. It is tricky to me on what to change and what to leave sometimes. It is cool for more poeple to be able to get on a good line, but at the same time, I really feel there should be some sorta bold lines out there, at all grades, for people who are into that to experence. We have a ton of well bolted lines at all grades in the red, so maybe it is best to leave a few of the older routes at each grade as "sporty" rather then turning them into just another sport route.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
This was the discussion I had hoped for. Thanks everyone. I like Henry the way it is! It is one of the few lines that I backed off on.
I was whining once to John B. once about the third clip on Government Cheese, if you fall after pulling up the first bite to clip you may be asking to much of your belayer. If you fall after pulling any more rope you are off belay! I could do the route, just barely, on TR. But, the third clip had me spooked. I had taken the fall and the math was tight. I told John about my "dilemma" and he told me that if you aren't ready to do a route then don't get on it. I grew some balls and sent it after that talk.
I would not change Henry. I would just replace the bolts. Thanks people.
I was whining once to John B. once about the third clip on Government Cheese, if you fall after pulling up the first bite to clip you may be asking to much of your belayer. If you fall after pulling any more rope you are off belay! I could do the route, just barely, on TR. But, the third clip had me spooked. I had taken the fall and the math was tight. I told John about my "dilemma" and he told me that if you aren't ready to do a route then don't get on it. I grew some balls and sent it after that talk.
I would not change Henry. I would just replace the bolts. Thanks people.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
I enjoyed Kampsight, To Defy The Laws of Tradition, Creepshow, etc. before they were altered.Andrew wrote:It's like when I did Kampsight. I was so proud of myself and I could tell all my friends how bad ass I was. Then John added a bolt to the route and every noob in the world came and did it. Think how that made me feel.
