looking for some 10a/b suggestions

Post by **claytorman** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 1:08 pm

hey all.
Can anyone suggest some good sport projects in the 10a/b range?

So far I have gotten Pogues, Loosen up, and Defy the Laws....really enjoyed all of them.

thanks

Post by **Wes** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 1:12 pm

AWOL, Ju-Ju, Funkadelic, Manic Impression, Rest assured, Blue Man Group, the 10's at Purple valley.

Wes

Post by **Spoonman** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 1:48 pm

The tens at roadside are very good, AWOL and Crazy Fingers are about 5.10b. The new tens at torrent (south side and not in the guide book) are good also.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 2:31 pm

If you really want to project something, work on Poopie Head at Torrent. With those other sends under your belt, it shouldn't take long to get.

Mj

Post by **captain static** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 5:09 pm

This is a perfect question for the sloth. Just search for sport routes between 5.10a to 5.10b and between ** & *** to get a list that includes the suggestions above plus a few more.

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 7:25 pm

So I querried the sloth, and I noticed that almost no new 10a/b routes have gone in since 1993. The two most noteworth exceptions are at Torrent and at Oil Crack. Given how popular 5.9 through 5.10b sport routes are, it seems that we should support the people who are fairly selflessly doing the work of putting them up for everyone else!

What's Ju-Ju? (It isn't in the online guide)

For my $0.02, Poopie Head is rough. AWOL can feel long and pumpy, but I love it. For something slabby and easy to access, try Overlord at Phantasia. I seem to remember that Fast Food Christians has a low crux followed by very easy slab climbing, so it's a good bet for trying to onsight or flash.

Post by **captain static** » Fri Apr 18, 2003 9:22 pm

Ju Ju is in the online guide but is listed as a mixed route. Sundance, just to the left, is a .10c but would be a good one to get on if you are working on 10's. Reserved Seating .10b, also at Pebble is a good climb. Another attraction for someone working .10's is that PB has the two .9's Central Scrutinizer & Blood Money to warm up on.

Post by **dlewis101** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 1:26 pm

I would agree with Tomdarch. If you have climbing on anything less that 10d/11a, especially new routes, it's probably because some nice person decided to take his day off and put some bolts up an intriguing line so others can climb it. Putting up bolts ain't easy.

Post by **davetieri** » Sun Apr 20, 2003 5:02 pm

POOPIE HEAD... thats all i have to say