Bad Lead Falls

[Jeff]

Yeah, I know you won't hit the ground on Opening Act. It's just that everytime I think of a big fall, I think of Petes' whipper.
You were safe man, you had another 15ft. before you would've decked

[SCIN]

It's the unknown route left of Skin Flute with the head cracking potential.
Since nobody knows the name of it Horatio named it "Alice's Head Smashing Through the Plate Glass Windshield". It's a fitting name.

Kick ass route.

[Jeff]

Cool name.

[houzmon]

i dont know if this is relevant to this topic but a group I was with this weekend was on "loosen up" at global village, and the is a dangerously large section that is lose right after the last bolt. they marked it with a chalk X. Just a heads up. cheers

[Steve]

My bad I can't keep up around here.

As for the loose stuff on Loosen Up, just pry it off with a nut tool!

[Wes]

There are many sport routes in the red where if you blow the 2nd, 3rd, and/or sometimes even 4th clips, you will hit the ground, or be very close. There are also, all kinds of things to hit while mid flight. I would be for pointing out some of the super scary ones, but maybe a big "DO THE MATH"* would help people understand that if you are 15 feet up, 5 feet above your last bolt, and your belay has a healty sport loop going, you want to make sure you are solid before pulling 3 feet of rope to make the clip. One friend of mine came within 3 feet of the ground after pulling rope to make the 4th clip on brother stair and falling before he could clip.

Wes

* The do that math quote is from Terry K., although I have also heard other use it.

[Gretchen]

Thanks Kato for thinking about me~

SCIN, I think BBerlier named that route? CHeck one of the previous threads, I could be wrong.

Personally I think if we give a blow by blow description of every bloody route, that will be one big guide to tote around. Plus that's part of what climbings all about, USING YOUR NOODLE and figuring it out! If the hazard is choss, shifty plates or something that is totally non-visible from the ground, then proceed with caution. There is always a chance to screw it up and talk a potential injury causing fall.

[Gretchen]

Found it


http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=58

[Artsay]

Exactly Wes. You nailed it. Just those routes that are definite ground falls.

So what are some of those routes? I wish Terry Kindred would post.

[Wes]

Well, off the top of my head, Sunshine, moonbeam, wadcutter, brother stair, danger mouse, yonder, mercy miss percy, etc... all have bolts that if you miss the clip, you will be close to decking. Notice all the easier routes? When 5.12 climbers bolt 5.9 routes, without thinking about 5.9 leaders, you get these kind of things.

Wes