Free Solo

Post by **Ascentionist** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:46 pm

I watched Steve Freas solo up and down Sunshine. Thought it was pretty stupid, but I think if I felt confident enough to pull it off I would probably do it too.

I know Dave Chenault soloed Foxfire. Kris Hampton used to solo stuff at Fortress. I think there is probably a lot more soloing going on than you think. I remember someone once told me that no one EVER solos in RRG. Well that was just absurd, I had already soloed 5 or 6 routes as a beginner. I think there are a lot of cool routes to be soloed in the RRG. Mostly trad, for reasons that Wes mentioned. If it doesn't top out it seem kinda silly.

If I could do anything, if I were a 5.15 climber I would solo:
Excalibur
Nevermore
Jungle Beat
Vector Trouble
Frenchburg Overhangs
H.B. at Fortress
Whiteout
Roadside Attraction
Andromeda Strain
The Quest
Blue Biner
Good Tang

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:16 pm

if i was a 5.15 climber and stupid enough(sorry my opinion) to solo it wouldn't be on little cliffs at the Red. I'd be on the big walls soloing stuff on el cap..things like that for example.

Post by **Spragwa** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:20 pm

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:32 pm

The one route that I want to free solo in the red, the one that makes my tips all sweaty just thinking about it is "No place like home". Killer exposure and it tops out. Not this year though, maybe next...

Post by **Astroman** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:55 pm

I know it doesn't ordinarily, but could you top-out 'L'isle au Ciel' at Funkrock (I can't remember the anchor)?? That would be a GREAT free solo (and relatively reasonable). 'No Place Like Home' would be really wild.... a few too many moves there on the arete that aren't totally "solid."

Post by **alien2** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 5:03 pm

Ascentionist wrote: If I could do anything, if I were a 5.15 climber I would solo:
Excalibur
Nevermore
Jungle Beat
Vector Trouble
Frenchburg Overhangs
H.B. at Fortress
Whiteout
Roadside Attraction
Andromeda Strain
The Quest
Blue Biner
Good Tang

Whiteout is a fun solo - http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1663
Not to glorify soloing though. The red has a lot of friable stone.

Post by **john e aragon** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 10:17 pm

I haven't done much free soloing, because i am a puss. but i have done some rope soloing. FoxFire rocked to climb alone the rope work it took to climb it's winding pitch cleanly kept me up at night for weeks in advance planning how i would do it.

Post by **Jrodan** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 4:38 am

rhunt wrote:I think soloing at the Red puts access in jeopardy.

Why, because soloing could hurt or kill you? People deck at Roadside all the time, but that hasn't comprimized access yet. I haven't heard of a single soloing accident in the red. At least soloing doesn't give you the false sense of security that an inadequate belayer does.

Post by **the lurkist** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 5:42 am

Lisle au ciel could be topped out. The chains are in a bald of rock that sticks up at the end of the little finger ridge just opposite from Prime Directive's anchor. the holds are all pockets (for the most part). Fairly low probability that anything would snap. Great exposure.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 3:09 pm

john e aragon wrote:I haven't done much free soloing, because i am a puss. but i have done some rope soloing. FoxFire rocked to climb alone the rope work it took to climb it's winding pitch cleanly kept me up at night for weeks in advance planning how i would do it.

How did you deal with the traverse? I keep wondering if it would just be easier to solo the traverse. YOu could always leave and anchor at the top of the second pitch and retrieve it on the hike down. YOu can actually access the top of that pitch without having to climb at all.