Free Solo

Post by **Astroman** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:10 pm

Things have been pretty slow on the message board lately....

I've been thinking a lot about Michael Reardon's free soloing exploits in Cali... first try solo of Romantic Warrior in the Needles... I actually climbed (most of) that route (with many falls) back in 2000... and I can't begin to explain to everyone how sickening the thought of climbing on that thing without a rope is. If anyone else has climbed in the Needles, then you know what I'm talking about- the hard routes there are insanely thin, sequential, and insecure with tons of "power laybacking" sequences. Footholds are almost always poor with very thin fingerlocks/laybacks. And Romantic Warrior takes those generalizations to the extreme. There isn't a secure, "easy" move on the entire first 12a pitch. The 12b "Book of Deception" pitch was unbelievably hard which ended at a hanging belay before the continuation of the sandy, 11+ corner (that Leavitt now admits is probably 5.12). So needless to say, Reardon wasn't able to enjoy the benefit of the rest at the belay before climbing into MORE 5.12 territory. Insane.

My partner YL and I were talking about the controversy regarding "onsight" vs "first try" and the amount of "key beta" he got from Dave Shultz and others.... As far as we're concerned, Reardon could've watched move-for-move videotape footage of the entire route and it would still be the most outrageous free solo of all time, and BY FAR. I doubt that any other person (including Peter Croft) who has climbed Romantic Warrior has entertained the idea of free soloing it.

I guess Huber's 14a free solo is damn impressive, too. Obviously totally different though.

What does anyone know about the history of free soloing in the Red?? I know that JM used to solo up (and then back down) Stay the Hand back in the day... I'd be surprised if Chainsaw hasn't been soloed lots of times... But I'm sure there have been more impressive ascents than that...

Post by **ynp1** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:17 pm

yeah man, michael reardon is sick as shit. have you seen him in return 2 sender. it has some great footage of him free soloing and him talking about free soloing.

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:27 pm

IMO Soloing sport routes is stupid. Soloing sport at the red, IMO is irresponsible. I would not take part in the body recovery efforts if someone died soloing at the Lode.

What is the reason for soloing a 60 foot sport route at the red? A route that you would need to wear a hareness and drag a rope up with you just to be able to get down.

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:57 pm

I remember reading somewhere that Chris Seirzant soloed a bunch of rrg sport routes, including wild gift (barefoot?).

But, I am with Rob on this - soloing just to cliping anchors is kinda contrived (although I have done it, and will probably do it more). Just wish there were more routes the toped out or ended at a nice ledge to solo around here.

Post by **dhoyne** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:24 pm

In my opinion, I see absolutely no point in skipping bolts just to clip in the anchors. What exactly does that prove? That you can conquer fear? Or that you don't understand how weak Corbin sandstone is and how easily a hold that's been there for years can break?

Post by **Huggybone** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:24 pm

What exactly does that prove? That you can conquer fear?

Parhaps I'm wrong, but isn't that the point of soloing hard routes? Isn't that exactly what makes soloing so crazy?

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:57 pm

conquering one's fear to me would be an esoteric reason for soloing, the potential for drastic results would I feel make it crazy- the few people I have met who are somewhat accomplished at it are diverse but not a outwardly lunatic among them

Post by **the lurkist** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:21 pm

two solo exploits of the Red that come to mind are Greg Smith soloing up and down Synchronicity while his mom and dad watched.
the other is JM soloing Wild Gift.

Post by **gregkerzhner** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:34 pm

Sierzant always talked about soloing up Wild gift, Chainsaw, Stay of the hand and some ofther stuff; he says he did all of them barefoot and no chalk (some kind of hippy asthetic thing or something) I think soloing is more about feeling the freedom of moving up the rock without anything attached to you. I have only done it twice, up 2 5.7 trad lines, and it was fucking awesome. I know that if i felt more comfortable with it, and climbed on more solid rock, I would do alot more of it. As far as the needles onsight soloing, thats just wild. I give props to the guy; he was clearly strong enough to do it, but onsight soloing isnt a very good idea.

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 9:39 pm

bouldering is a great way to "feeling the freedom of moving up the rock without anything attached to you"!

I think soloing at the Red puts access in jeopardy.