Muskatatuc spray

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:34 pm

Went there saturdy, warmed up by traversing the Henousness wall (at the easy part), and then did a crap load of sit starts. I'd do this: move pad, do sit start, climb up, jump down. Move pad, do sit start, climb up, jump down. Move pad...

Until I was warmed up.

Then I set my sights on 'the racist,' which is a cool V1 that shut me down last year. I fell some 10 times, then sent. I remembered reading in a book once that you should follow up a send with another, so I did the problem again. and again, and again... Its a good problem.

Then I went looking for something else, so I wandered over to the peach wall. Its about 15 feet tall, capped by a big limestone roof. I did a bunch of V1's and got shut down by a v2.

Then a went in search of some more problems. So I wander around the tangerine wall looking at stuff, and the thing about the rock there...it's ugly. Limestone (that i've climbed) is just ugly. Anyway, so I wander and am about to settle on some of the nearby boudlers, when two other climbers come down.

We chat, my dog barks at them, and they say, hey, you wanna climb with us? So I do. This kid was strong, and convinced my to try some harder problems- a V4, a V6, and a V8. It was so much fun I could piss myself. I diddn't send any of them, but I did the crux move of the V8, and all but the beginning of the V4.

My favorite was the V8, I think it was called chili pepper. Anyway, doing one of the moves it feels like my arm is literally being pulled from the socket. I couldn't link the moves, but it was still freaking so much fun.

After that, I want over to strawberry fields and climbed till I couldn't even hang on to a giant jug.

Today- two days later, I hurt in paces I diddn't even know I had. eveything except my calves hurts.

It's probably not worth the drive from lexington, but it is from Louisville or Indy. That place just rocks. It's ugly, but it rocks.

How far is it from Lexington to the Lily boulders?

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:36 pm

Oh yeah, and this guy from S Africa was there too. Both he and the other guy were really nice, it was cool to see other climbers out there.

Post by **hoss** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:37 pm

Lilly boulders are REALLY BAD

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:39 pm

I need to get over there again - the one time I went, everything was soaked so we ended up in the super stellar gym of greg's.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:26 pm

lily at the obed, or something else?

Post by **toddc** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:51 pm

the Lily boulders are about 2.5 to 3 hours from Lexington.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 6:03 pm

ok, now I'm really confused. lily boulders in TN are closer to Lex than Indy or Louisville....why would it be a better drive for those further away?

Post by JB » Mon Jan 09, 2006 7:59 pm

Lilly is okay... probably quite good for beginners to inermediates! Lots of fun stuff in the V0 - V4 range... but if you're going that far, keep going to LRC or Rocktown.

Post by **Huggybone** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:34 pm

How far are those places?
Never been.

Post by **hoss** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:37 pm

I was just at LRC, it's about 4.5 hours, and seriously eons better than lilly. I was at lilly (it's at Obed) three weeks ago, the topouts are all mossy, most of the problems are eliminates and the guide is kinda hard to figure out (besides the obvious lines). Morehead bouldering kicks the crap out of lilly. If you're looking for a road trip you can drive another couple hours and get to stellar fields such as LRC, HP40, and Rocktown.